tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39253163275375363802024-02-07T04:56:13.713-07:001979 VW Westfalia Campmobile DeluxeGoal: Convert from the stock aircooled VW engine to a 2001 Subaru 2.2 liter watercooled engine.
Gains: more horsepower, more torque, modern conveniences in a timeless vehicle, enjoyable evening garage project to become better acquainted with my Bus.
Disclaimor: I am not a master mechanic, nor even a competent shadetree mechanic.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-46921293655353920982011-08-17T14:30:00.000-06:002011-08-17T14:30:49.888-06:00Video of start up and engine bayI apologize for the skewness of the video. I'll take another and hold the video phone the correct way! It is something for now at least...<br />
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Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-49828910184709238922011-08-15T14:06:00.003-06:002022-04-29T10:01:34.409-06:00Coolant Schematic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This schematic does not show the heater core set up. Right now I have just looped the heater out line to the heater return line as denoted by #4 and #9.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Click the image to enlarge:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWam6pQXE9zUK07CPFN1-Thl1qzXsj63isdEJw0Q4s8zxG5oPBFHFOD7WIGxM8A0Nr_y167H8kd7cOEZdlOUN0YEeYwew3RNgr3GqsLypFz1sRz_gYRoegt5TmqKTvZ4rduvaPJ4Z-Xkk/s1600/IMAG0629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWam6pQXE9zUK07CPFN1-Thl1qzXsj63isdEJw0Q4s8zxG5oPBFHFOD7WIGxM8A0Nr_y167H8kd7cOEZdlOUN0YEeYwew3RNgr3GqsLypFz1sRz_gYRoegt5TmqKTvZ4rduvaPJ4Z-Xkk/s320/IMAG0629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-13211874440210519742011-06-23T23:43:00.001-06:002022-04-29T10:00:40.733-06:00New shoesI finally ditched the under-rated passenger tires that came with the bus. I went with General Grabber AT2 27/8.5R14 tires on all four plus the spare. Adds about 1.5" of lift and helps lower my cruising rpms just slightly. Busaru now has a nice rugged stance in my opinion. I also added coil over shocks to the rear, which helped out the slight butt drag present before. <br />
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I was prepared for more road noise due to the tread pattern and all terrain ratings, but I am honestly surprised and quite pleased with how quite these tires are! I'm t<span>ota</span>lly satisfied on all accounts with the purchase of these tires. Highly recommended.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-88491750174845895962011-06-23T23:34:00.001-06:002022-04-29T10:04:29.724-06:00Engine and accessories<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Just thought I'd show a few pictures of the final engine set up, the control board and my Scan Gauge set up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Oh sweet Subaru. It looks so native to the engine bay.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My junk yard find K&N filter. Looks pretty good in there as well!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>The control board and all the goodies...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And my Scan Guage, which allows me to monitor multiple sensors all from one unit, and allows me to detect trouble codes and clear them as well. All from the OBDII connector. Love it!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8pvq_t8HStNrw1FZxk4FgiCJPoiOBd_Y2Me9mUK1O8tOghPqfqH5eFkGEFYOi4iqkC5tqfXWJKW-rBG1SkoARx-4QYx4SyOME8swEa2wqifCS3stEanDv0V_pmWgaUFe-NviWOProCnA/s1600/IMAG0579.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8pvq_t8HStNrw1FZxk4FgiCJPoiOBd_Y2Me9mUK1O8tOghPqfqH5eFkGEFYOi4iqkC5tqfXWJKW-rBG1SkoARx-4QYx4SyOME8swEa2wqifCS3stEanDv0V_pmWgaUFe-NviWOProCnA/w320-h240/IMAG0579.jpg" true="" width="320" /></a></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-10871707329984509562011-06-23T23:20:00.001-06:002022-04-29T09:59:12.978-06:00Rammat, insolite, and reflectixMy next project with Busaru has been to install Rammat and insolite, along with Reflectix and r-15 insulation. I pulled the entire interior out and proceeded to install Rammat and insolite. I also used Great Stuff expanding foam in some of the interior cavities. I was paranoid about potential water spots and so used it only in areas that I was confident would never see water. It was a very tedious and time consuming job, stealing quite a few evenings that I could have been drinking beer and watching "So You Think You Can Dance." Just kidding. I'll let the pictures tell the story once again:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttjdpFe1MScXW9GjDYYA4Fw6ZqSwsmWl97nXd3R0yJm1BrLLPUS5nbMEQe-5uc5UIenILs9DsIUH1NGdlfQfi40k1QIuxF8XEs2hmG25h6REeT-SJCy31zAHWumjty2G0U3vTGyaeW1I/s1600/IMAG0519.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttjdpFe1MScXW9GjDYYA4Fw6ZqSwsmWl97nXd3R0yJm1BrLLPUS5nbMEQe-5uc5UIenILs9DsIUH1NGdlfQfi40k1QIuxF8XEs2hmG25h6REeT-SJCy31zAHWumjty2G0U3vTGyaeW1I/s320/IMAG0519.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The pic below is actually of my ECU and all of the fans, fuel pump and main relays for the Subaru. I also have a dual battery isolator from Small Car installed to control my auxiliary battery charge (the thing in the top left of the board). the control board mounts vertically on the inside of the closet back wall and the wires run through a hole cut in the wheel well. Just thought I'd show it...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQOAOGzJ9ViUI8Ljlgjsw8Kjun9cZ6_8ZoLpFLvdH0b3ev8nWCg4aFqa91elEb58M6bG0XXtNzpsdCTixsrX9FFzkU8kCUHjn-uprl_QwWScTq5En1WSeIwokMHCXkiRjti8bir3ejcQ/s1600/IMAG0524.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQOAOGzJ9ViUI8Ljlgjsw8Kjun9cZ6_8ZoLpFLvdH0b3ev8nWCg4aFqa91elEb58M6bG0XXtNzpsdCTixsrX9FFzkU8kCUHjn-uprl_QwWScTq5En1WSeIwokMHCXkiRjti8bir3ejcQ/s320/IMAG0524.jpg" true="" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjFD7-zYOL8Fg7faZHq_x71UAWAS6MLZ5UyrcCpynGsbGWzxqIajIZZnTw2XMywii9jiKHTzTgExt-Mkvcu26MDKMAF6JP-X540BtLGP9_Ed9Hy7CdDauML0_Hlgx8VlhlllDF-PlZsc/s1600/IMAG0528.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjFD7-zYOL8Fg7faZHq_x71UAWAS6MLZ5UyrcCpynGsbGWzxqIajIZZnTw2XMywii9jiKHTzTgExt-Mkvcu26MDKMAF6JP-X540BtLGP9_Ed9Hy7CdDauML0_Hlgx8VlhlllDF-PlZsc/s320/IMAG0528.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Reflectix going down on top of the insolite...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgupXssAAXZSkoyiFeemxpfKjWZDZMLe-EMnYioCNjyVIScXi8yqAsayUKTQlkaonNgWRaFNUhu4NYICaqWKHpwgjkQt1sll3HMiNrHlOv4wq9_QmrazMjkeDW8esAoEYBQV3gAmGwcpQ8/s1600/IMAG0530.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgupXssAAXZSkoyiFeemxpfKjWZDZMLe-EMnYioCNjyVIScXi8yqAsayUKTQlkaonNgWRaFNUhu4NYICaqWKHpwgjkQt1sll3HMiNrHlOv4wq9_QmrazMjkeDW8esAoEYBQV3gAmGwcpQ8/s320/IMAG0530.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We are trying out vynal sticky strips that look like bamboo. I wanted to find a solid piece of laminate but we ended up with these instead. I am curious to see how well they hold up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEVXLB_Osik9Wzvnq5NRxT1KPcR64HaXwRgz7MCV2TQmMyozyeba3uuO_tybAFkLHzoFRwjquLVJTKWeWw4H0PoRsvKpvtkFT4fuqGz8sq_SJfPhEuPK-BJ_obgQNQarNuJC1IINmP-Z4/s1600/IMAG0533.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEVXLB_Osik9Wzvnq5NRxT1KPcR64HaXwRgz7MCV2TQmMyozyeba3uuO_tybAFkLHzoFRwjquLVJTKWeWw4H0PoRsvKpvtkFT4fuqGz8sq_SJfPhEuPK-BJ_obgQNQarNuJC1IINmP-Z4/s320/IMAG0533.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Utility carpet going in. Some spray adhesive keeps it tight.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KDsC0NZt-bpvTSfAPzBJyHaUiaRF74NS00K62WBNcgQ6Yp_MFKhCQ7v5YUrngQ4pg_5zDceM6vp7yJy-mx5NiVl6wa5RgtAb6NRYPmAqHF0AF8-bOkaPXeVSqMej9xUQU2J8vNiywr8/s1600/IMAG0535.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KDsC0NZt-bpvTSfAPzBJyHaUiaRF74NS00K62WBNcgQ6Yp_MFKhCQ7v5YUrngQ4pg_5zDceM6vp7yJy-mx5NiVl6wa5RgtAb6NRYPmAqHF0AF8-bOkaPXeVSqMej9xUQU2J8vNiywr8/s320/IMAG0535.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpqeSQlVFFwdjbh0y7PDb7KGilfAgiDHkmWFSazrtAUmDuZXl5y9wkFNXY0dy75l6h2mnjBF5fWQTE5LAt1BUudfWPUclCCS3Rgf3RTUx9_d_-0FytVFW8RNyx2gNMPeP4RTn2Qgug9U/s1600/IMAG0537.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpqeSQlVFFwdjbh0y7PDb7KGilfAgiDHkmWFSazrtAUmDuZXl5y9wkFNXY0dy75l6h2mnjBF5fWQTE5LAt1BUudfWPUclCCS3Rgf3RTUx9_d_-0FytVFW8RNyx2gNMPeP4RTn2Qgug9U/s320/IMAG0537.jpg" true="" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Interior going back in. Kind of a pain to get the bolt and screw holes to all realign! Lots of fussing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjOURcSM7Ejq3RKsJ7Ctq7EiSthMl2HFGt3jKgAUYEJyflNKtWntRSBTOIkt1PpBU3rE1LJEiJ7RXhfKBLCO9ZzO0yqtFc7qJKk2P7eaNt2f5R18EMoMmdEcysZZu0urHIZ2Phxuuo0E8/s1600/IMAG0538.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjOURcSM7Ejq3RKsJ7Ctq7EiSthMl2HFGt3jKgAUYEJyflNKtWntRSBTOIkt1PpBU3rE1LJEiJ7RXhfKBLCO9ZzO0yqtFc7qJKk2P7eaNt2f5R18EMoMmdEcysZZu0urHIZ2Phxuuo0E8/s320/IMAG0538.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2AX-YjS9uOuz2t6NalUetQZP3AozO3dWemS4HiSdtuErLx_0Px2aeXLiWWLkZ2aElwscKI5qzruYW59h9REtdxxrkIUSvdrybi7lY2SbnYilDadTFZ69sx8LCaJfV2loFTZhOZezb8Lc/s1600/IMAG0540.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2AX-YjS9uOuz2t6NalUetQZP3AozO3dWemS4HiSdtuErLx_0Px2aeXLiWWLkZ2aElwscKI5qzruYW59h9REtdxxrkIUSvdrybi7lY2SbnYilDadTFZ69sx8LCaJfV2loFTZhOZezb8Lc/s320/IMAG0540.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is my favorite sticker (the white one). Look close and pay attention (if you have an attention span...uh, I'm sorry. What? :-))</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjRiru4bIqeh0203YA4f1ZId22gW0fPEFOuprGBCw7085aoaSH9b2BrEoI1aFYXPbeyzxNo0HAYZGS2HaW0vp7OALmXsdZ5rbeE0nZmcGm4fFF0iog3tdJ49LO-Go4PUhzobEHccMbrM/s1600/IMAG0541.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjRiru4bIqeh0203YA4f1ZId22gW0fPEFOuprGBCw7085aoaSH9b2BrEoI1aFYXPbeyzxNo0HAYZGS2HaW0vp7OALmXsdZ5rbeE0nZmcGm4fFF0iog3tdJ49LO-Go4PUhzobEHccMbrM/s320/IMAG0541.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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"No one can take thr place of Bob."Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-40612640534045684112011-06-23T22:34:00.001-06:002022-04-29T09:58:13.031-06:00Details of radiator system and linesIn this post I have tried to capture pictures of the radiator support system as well as good shots of the Stainless Steel lines to and from the engine-radiator. Here goes:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPv7ptiA0GuGudTMPTJ1yASuAw0IOgaHteMDZKG5RuE4TXEcuuXaDlAU2iZyCf7YoF9_C7i5A4bYuM-jjT6gayVoH2wJ05yAbV1J1gbYBmsd-3HxT2MYk6VVxQ9qUpuAH6iIsWIUk_G2w/s1600/IMAG0555.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPv7ptiA0GuGudTMPTJ1yASuAw0IOgaHteMDZKG5RuE4TXEcuuXaDlAU2iZyCf7YoF9_C7i5A4bYuM-jjT6gayVoH2wJ05yAbV1J1gbYBmsd-3HxT2MYk6VVxQ9qUpuAH6iIsWIUk_G2w/w240-h320/IMAG0555.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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In the photo above, you can see a bit of how the radiator support was constructed. Angle iron constituted the main structure from frame rail to frame rail for the the front and the back of the system. Small holes were drilled in for increased airflow. At the end of the angle iron, you can see another small piece of angle iron welded on with a drilled bolt hole to attach the system to the frame of the VW. The entire system is secured with four grade 8 bolts and nyloc nuts.<br />
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Front to back on the left and right of the system is yet another run of angle iron. This is welded to the angle iron that runs from frame rail to frame rail. Three holes were drilled per side to mount the radiator then to the front to rear angle iron as seen below. Notice in the picture above, a rubber pad separates the radiator from direct contact with the angle iron to help dampen some of the vibrations and torque of the unibody of the bus.<br />
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<img border="0" height="240" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkANHtqaUpw1IqZYjG10JDUvxxNLjDQadWopaZZUm6COZhUH3_nt_psRGc6BJJx_2_0v8GS_-Wb0FdLC0JV2r-tSXWFt0hOAUiwXtQ4yLvamlZ6lOdSt-IKptNpKjVaC0dAnNSYn1k8M/s320/IMAG0560.jpg" true="" width="320" /><br />
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Once the side to side and front to rear angle iron was measured, cut, and welded into a square structure, the next step was to take some sheet metal and cut to size to fit the square structure. It was welded on to the bottom of the structure and 2.5" holes were drilled into the sheet metal (5 holes left to right and 5 holes front to back) to allow air to flow from the top of the system down through the radiator (or to be pushed by the 2 14" pusher fans) and out. Fine grade wire mesh from a farm and ranch store was then liquid nailed inside the sheet metal to prevent gravel and rocks and twigs, etc. from make contact and possibly damaging the radiator itself. This system allows the whole radiator system to be dropped as one unit by removing four bolts (and of course draining coolant and disconnecting the two hoses). <br />
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Also notice there is no air scoop or boxing of the radiator cavity along the side rails or back space. It simply sits there as is. <br />
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The next picture attempts to show the space between the top of the low profile fan and the floor of the bus; still a decent amount of space. I'll also point out that the rear of the radiator system sits higher in the belly of the floor pan and drops approximately .5" in the front. This allows coolant to drain from the front facing petcock in a controlled and easy manner. Point is the space between the top of the fans and the floor of the bus is greater in the front; and this picture is taken from the rear most vantage point...<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6AdmU6rw_vMB-wfjfw0OoT5ZbUHETkEXhQw-NuTmXjhGYn7n8WIyjPYEs42px9u2zIEkOueHiy-MpplDG28EHKEugYIfD1NrFYtsIENReIEiHbLWBw5QeDFi0n-QsKthzkxDUUuFU3r4/s1600/IMAG0559.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6AdmU6rw_vMB-wfjfw0OoT5ZbUHETkEXhQw-NuTmXjhGYn7n8WIyjPYEs42px9u2zIEkOueHiy-MpplDG28EHKEugYIfD1NrFYtsIENReIEiHbLWBw5QeDFi0n-QsKthzkxDUUuFU3r4/s320/IMAG0559.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The following pictures are shots of the custom stainless steel lines and support mounts that span the distance between the engine and the radiator. Sorry, they aren't in any order and you'll have to do some detective work to determine driver side and passenger side. I'll let the picture do the talking:</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqXRjWxxIW5cTkgxUWYU2OXDa3E6rR7KEcrR-plhf9RsXEmThcIVo9yknOphzk8E5k-Bq8mHLThAdVS-IB_zGUWKJL-hclANPyUZYKOffswhBgKF3OMHwTZcWAL3dNzFoPYrTM2hE0Dn8/s1600/IMAG0562.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqXRjWxxIW5cTkgxUWYU2OXDa3E6rR7KEcrR-plhf9RsXEmThcIVo9yknOphzk8E5k-Bq8mHLThAdVS-IB_zGUWKJL-hclANPyUZYKOffswhBgKF3OMHwTZcWAL3dNzFoPYrTM2hE0Dn8/s320/IMAG0562.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsFZgLcB_O0VZHVHuK9dDL-rFIkCtozYZaRwcqSBM93fSs71RjfMVeM9zvoAxW3WkRi-FeVB8oouE0KlHX8cdSTjM1InQXr7gMjDFjiGN2XJDGJRdfX37s-ADC7xmUDhcoxQrKoIWh7h8/s1600/IMAG0563.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsFZgLcB_O0VZHVHuK9dDL-rFIkCtozYZaRwcqSBM93fSs71RjfMVeM9zvoAxW3WkRi-FeVB8oouE0KlHX8cdSTjM1InQXr7gMjDFjiGN2XJDGJRdfX37s-ADC7xmUDhcoxQrKoIWh7h8/s320/IMAG0563.jpg" true="" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHoccUo-HyHXho5EMA867LA7Sk0RTuysroJIKRTVafU20Ol6ky-xZKzjgPmucrnVPc-fmMP8cWXxmwIGI0dgD02qh3_KWZrJc2MJ-ZSNnxmVl1fXhnDYrRgK-6YSeA_syv0gEC47CjGY/s1600/IMAG0565.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHoccUo-HyHXho5EMA867LA7Sk0RTuysroJIKRTVafU20Ol6ky-xZKzjgPmucrnVPc-fmMP8cWXxmwIGI0dgD02qh3_KWZrJc2MJ-ZSNnxmVl1fXhnDYrRgK-6YSeA_syv0gEC47CjGY/s320/IMAG0565.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__cfhjDl9EIzPWf4pWuTdwsdP2cx18RIzPIDJ3OZvnhngZEHlYjLM5c3KVZJ3j-Y3I_6bvqgR29ex4sU-8w36Eb3euOBX0N0RF20z2Qy0yMpD645RhomW4xdXpiPhJMjngZCSnb8uktY/s1600/IMAG0566.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__cfhjDl9EIzPWf4pWuTdwsdP2cx18RIzPIDJ3OZvnhngZEHlYjLM5c3KVZJ3j-Y3I_6bvqgR29ex4sU-8w36Eb3euOBX0N0RF20z2Qy0yMpD645RhomW4xdXpiPhJMjngZCSnb8uktY/s320/IMAG0566.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHsWKB5AVjdXl9WWZMEDbqa8MeGJJWpJsL06cPmXB0Oimm8YOZJay-8lHkr1qEZTFxHVLQyQGMIAMybrli7HyTkUoAnh2b4eWOMor3fBn5gTfx_jAVfpvC4U3aryPbCpBK9mEft2Cy9q4/s1600/IMAG0567.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHsWKB5AVjdXl9WWZMEDbqa8MeGJJWpJsL06cPmXB0Oimm8YOZJay-8lHkr1qEZTFxHVLQyQGMIAMybrli7HyTkUoAnh2b4eWOMor3fBn5gTfx_jAVfpvC4U3aryPbCpBK9mEft2Cy9q4/s320/IMAG0567.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The picture below is how I control the fans. I did not build the fan system into the Subaru ECU, which controls fans based on both temp and speed. My fans are simply controlled by a thermo switch (210*) placed in a coupler T immediately after the coolant manifold exit. So far based on watching my Scan Gauge, which reports coolant temps via the temp sensor as reported through the ECU, the fans seem to kick on at 206* and run until about 196*. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjQksQGwyG8NIZvXUeHVIpeNWXanPEkpWT23M0jR1BCs4gtaB3o_iIL6kBgA51pkOa6un_Rqdmx4gzCTcm5FelrQp2ciae4D_MAgbQ793J2PdMneHmaiXK4tKmO9Pb33Y7VMsNsWWjXU/s1600/IMAG0569.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjQksQGwyG8NIZvXUeHVIpeNWXanPEkpWT23M0jR1BCs4gtaB3o_iIL6kBgA51pkOa6un_Rqdmx4gzCTcm5FelrQp2ciae4D_MAgbQ793J2PdMneHmaiXK4tKmO9Pb33Y7VMsNsWWjXU/s320/IMAG0569.jpg" true="" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The following pictures are how I plumped the thermostat. You'll notice Tom Shiel's adaptor, which will allow me to set up a heating system without affecting the thermostat by reading luke warm coolant. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNqZXCt3fbVizEaV8G2EUosm4gzAFG-Wloq2AK3olPMimCaHtqSO_ar6H5_gffR6Jcdf5WzALNZ8M7CeIJcoSUSQC_r-1zAEuT0bPA4yQBiE-839cxgETcMbAhg2ZqwXZjvuS6hSxeZQo/s1600/IMAG0571.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNqZXCt3fbVizEaV8G2EUosm4gzAFG-Wloq2AK3olPMimCaHtqSO_ar6H5_gffR6Jcdf5WzALNZ8M7CeIJcoSUSQC_r-1zAEuT0bPA4yQBiE-839cxgETcMbAhg2ZqwXZjvuS6hSxeZQo/s320/IMAG0571.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>You can see the radiator return line at the bottom. The hose attached to Tom's adaptor is from the pressure tank, which is feed coolant from one of the stainless pipe runs immediately following the coolant manifold exit and fan thermoswitch. That way, hot coolant is run from the manifold, through the thermoswitch and the takes two paths: one to the radiator and one to the pressure tank, where it is then routed down to the thermostat adaptor. <br />
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The top hose you see is the original Subaru heater return line. Currently, I have the rear of the coolant manifold (i.e. the heater supply) simply connected via a short hose to the return pipe (just a big u-bend). Once I am ready to set up my heater cores, I will run the entire system from the original heater supply and heater return pipes as a separate and complete system; no negative effect to the coolant temperature controlling the thermostat!<br />
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One word of caution regarding the Tom Shiel's adaptor: I actually had to shave down the adapter in the area where is is closest to the oil dip stick tube. The adapted made contact with the oil dip stick tube and I was not able to get a solid seal around the thermostat housing. A Drimmel tool and 10 minutes and I was in business, but not before I put a gallon of coolant in only to realize the problem as the gallon of coolant spread across my garage floor. Just something to be aware of (don't know if this is a common problem or a "my" problem).Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-78948029401006587302011-06-23T21:18:00.001-06:002022-04-29T10:03:20.964-06:00Rear Engine Support Bar DetailsIt's been awhile since I've posted and have quite a few pics to upload to cover details of the build. The bus is on the road and driving! I've been using it to commute to work and back, we've taken a 150 mile day trip loaded with kids and dog, and have done a lot more work beyond the conversion since the last post.<br />
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First up though, I want to provide some detailed pictures of the rear support bar. I tired to create my own version and quickly realized my effort was not very good. I had Dan Coy of Coy's Customs in Longmont Colorado rebuild the bar and his design is simple and clean. <br />
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I started with a Vanagon cross bar and ground off the hanger supports and then shortened the bar to span the frame rails. <br />
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<img border="0" height="191" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_P77WKZzzx193Y3h-ei03Ydory-76jWyFueJ-7NbW87dKDDciF69vObe3EOGn1xH_FADzSzHT76_RKjs3NC2YQH7OYGHxgKY2ZVY9tunI6aLijuZTFEba_tjWMJso896wh7TcEvRy90/w320-h191/IMAG0321.jpg" true="" width="320" /> <img border="0" height="191" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZePIW-LwYO8ADkXfjJAMrf_1x2gIF5rvlAcT0-wlNpWdAUVkJ_5gzNatBkxCx9KiTRQ8zvCaw9Lhyphenhyphenm2nFHRca-KAgPSKCiv18A6fx0mBjqSdsBb5VHEn6GHfUO9Q6pa3XEn6wgQrzTE/w320-h191/IMAG0322.jpg" true="" width="320" /><br />
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Dan did a better job:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRUVUYVdFQZfoxcKB2yXmOo2QWjIQJ4w0huZcnxCC9mT9aDmpfAaOmI1bwjrdRZrm6tATCrkIdwGLi1Mpgr8Lfcq5Nkm-ScSLDX2ROKyNkIn3LeBrXbMu12Mqro7bLW_MwW-DDEkuybKw/s1600/IMAG0520.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRUVUYVdFQZfoxcKB2yXmOo2QWjIQJ4w0huZcnxCC9mT9aDmpfAaOmI1bwjrdRZrm6tATCrkIdwGLi1Mpgr8Lfcq5Nkm-ScSLDX2ROKyNkIn3LeBrXbMu12Mqro7bLW_MwW-DDEkuybKw/w320-h240/IMAG0520.jpg" true="" width="320" /></a></div>First, he added a plate the is welded to the end of the bar and extends toward the front of the bus along the outside of the frame rails. The bolt holes actually align with the bunged bolt holes for the original VW crossbar hangers. No fuss, no muss. <br />
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</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-color: initial; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-style: none; border-top: medium none; border-width: medium;">On the inside of the frame rails, he added a simple plate to reinforce the hanger and provide a bit more structural support. The rear bar doesn't actually support the weight of the engine, it provides support for torque and rotation. The Vanagon bar of course mounts perfectly to the Small Car engine carrier with stock Vanagon rubber mounts. Clean, simple, and effective.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-color: initial; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-style: none; border-top: medium none; border-width: medium;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-color: initial; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-style: none; border-top: medium none; border-width: medium; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMwq2bv3nEvx7RA2QJAOt9N4riGTiajeY4ThzBuAv584runAG4R2AqUlBaYcQMoQC-hcL7WOWGbdMV7dPmVZy4j9vGflnkHhffySiupykjmyFa_XLypuz3CyMDCbLjJAeABnbY8s-JUY/s1600/IMAG0522.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" i="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMwq2bv3nEvx7RA2QJAOt9N4riGTiajeY4ThzBuAv584runAG4R2AqUlBaYcQMoQC-hcL7WOWGbdMV7dPmVZy4j9vGflnkHhffySiupykjmyFa_XLypuz3CyMDCbLjJAeABnbY8s-JUY/w240-h320/IMAG0522.jpg" true="" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-color: initial; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-style: none; border-top: medium none; border-width: medium; clear: both; text-align: left;">In the photo above, you can just barely make out the steel plate on the inside of the frame rail with the two bolts that pass through the stock VW hanger bolt holes as well as a horizontal tab that bridges the bar and the plate on the outside of the frame rail (creates yet more rigidity). <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_P77WKZzzx193Y3h-ei03Ydory-76jWyFueJ-7NbW87dKDDciF69vObe3EOGn1xH_FADzSzHT76_RKjs3NC2YQH7OYGHxgKY2ZVY9tunI6aLijuZTFEba_tjWMJso896wh7TcEvRy90/s1600/IMAG0321.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-7603547582765034892011-04-08T20:32:00.001-06:002011-05-25T11:57:30.481-06:00Radiator support framework and Coolant linesThe radiator support framework and the coolant lines are finally finished! <br />
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Here's the story: I purchased a custom aluminum radiator from Wizard Cooling in New York. The radiator is 17.5 x 28.1 x 1.25... almost twice the volumn of the original Subaru radiator and nice fit both width wise and depth wise for teh belly of teh bus. I also purchased two 14" low profile Spal pusher fans, plus relays and wiring kit. Wizard made fan mounting tabs as well as rail mounting sides.<br />
Since I have no welding or fabrication tools (not to mention skills!) I ponied up to have the fab work done professionally. Great thanks go out to Dan Coy of <a href="http://www.coyscustoms.com/">Coys Customs</a> in Longmont, CO for doing such quality work in a short time! Dan built the radiator support framework and protection concepts as well as rebuilt the rear crossmember (it was bent and mangled already) to allow easy fitting of coolant hose. He then proceeded to custom build the Stainless Steel coolant pipes between the engine and the radiator. I'll let the pictures tell the story and then provide some details below.<br />
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As you can see, a lot of work into this fabrication, but the final result looks clean and easy. Dan ended up removing the original rear cross member because it was pretty beat up to begin with with and I wanted to route the the hoses through that spot to ensure a nice, high radiator placement. You can see how the new rear support bar had holes drilled through it to allow all the original lies and hoses to still pass through while also creating perfectly place large holes to route the hoses through.<br />
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The radiator has a 1/2" slope from rear to front. I have a drain cock in the front of the radiator on the lower end to make draining easier. The radiator itself is mounted to a steel frame, which is then mounted to the VW side frame rails. A thin wire mesh small enough to keep most gravel out was adhered onto the inside of a piece of sheet metal with round holes cut in it to allow airflow to pass from the top of the radiator through the bottom and out. The sheet metal was then welded to the bottom of the steel frame. Smaller holes were drilled out along the front edge and rear edge for further airflow.<br />
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Custom 1 1/2" stainless steel lines were fabricated to fill as much linear space between the radiator inlet/outlet and the engine. Rubber coolant line was used for the rest of the length that wouldn't allow of hard line.<br />
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The pressure tank was mounted on the firewall and is a general tank from JEGs or Summit or someplace similar It is connected to the outlet side of the engine system via a hose barb. The bottom of the pressure tank is routed to the inlet bard on the Tom Shiels temperature sending unit adapter. I will plumb the heater lines to the lower original temp sending inlet. The pressure tank also routes to the overflow tank. Both Pressure tank and overflow tank are accessible for filling via the engine lid in the rear of the compartment.<br />
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Last big item to complete is the wiring and then a bunch of smaller things like vacuum hoses and fresh air intake set up.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-18020242255055362942011-01-25T13:18:00.000-07:002011-01-25T13:21:02.709-07:00Rear Engine Support Bar<div style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></div><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5akSGSYraU1xKmLC2MEkv0i3S-bolgFf8MkPEkfCRYFh3Ps3-mspty9Uarm67jAj1awphb9QirqN7BU2p3n_jYyqN38G01gTvowwmEG4ykNGdqBS3jdxQCJj1urb1NhjVb6ECspD8MvI/s1600/IMAG0434.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5akSGSYraU1xKmLC2MEkv0i3S-bolgFf8MkPEkfCRYFh3Ps3-mspty9Uarm67jAj1awphb9QirqN7BU2p3n_jYyqN38G01gTvowwmEG4ykNGdqBS3jdxQCJj1urb1NhjVb6ECspD8MvI/s320/IMAG0434.jpg" style="cursor: move;" unselectable="on" width="320" /></a></div>So the first step toward getting my rear cross bar set up was to grind down the original Vanagon bar on the passenger side to create a little more vertical lift. In stock location, the top of the bar hit the bottom of the frame rails and ended up about an 1/8 of an inch below the engine mounts. A little time with a 4 1/2" angle grinder and viola. You will also notice in these pictures that I drilled holes through the cross bar. The idea is to use angle iron to bolt to the botton of the frame rail and then run a grade 8 bolt through the cross bar and through the angle iron. <br />
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<img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75wUz5Y6GO-9hJO9vFFBMGIMTe5nCxOKrzC7PQzuNkwE_CQo-qws5kq-Hu3pd8ekC46ehc4fVaaUdUpUyRqslOoxNn8eR0cW0YzLNP4LkQkVHBxRe5TkDORSNoDL2Am4VkTwSEM3dv20/s320/IMAG0432.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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With the cross bar in place I realized that there is a bit of a lip on the frame rail that actually interfers by about 1/2" with the correct placement of the cross bar. So I started <strong>permantent body modification #2</strong> on this project: I cut 1/2" of the lip of the bottom of the frame rail. I used an angle grinder to cut a notch in the lip, grabbed a pair of vice grips and broke the lip off on both frame rails.<br />
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Before:<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Wn4osKJSpIwqRxzZTaneVRDuwDXdRA_0b3toxuHnJ12SUGlhbmVbUq4cgpaGQnqusCDznL4bX0diVjXXDHrcck8TFGU2jKlka5eOu2SzGzzvkZfYq-jIGcadjW7xk66QDeiw8aF9ytQ/s1600/IMAG0424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Wn4osKJSpIwqRxzZTaneVRDuwDXdRA_0b3toxuHnJ12SUGlhbmVbUq4cgpaGQnqusCDznL4bX0diVjXXDHrcck8TFGU2jKlka5eOu2SzGzzvkZfYq-jIGcadjW7xk66QDeiw8aF9ytQ/s320/IMAG0424.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEOfVpRyEK_u5cJxdVfkUtpQR_a5qhm5NjgOlKFzp0Mmi8nAPvp4errghYzzEkYr3u_h_nG0QS8F4QgAOcU_mduJK5MMm9qszAxYpRI7OjLVaxUjN36xXx2jaKavChJqxGYCHvjmZKlo/s1600/IMAG0426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEOfVpRyEK_u5cJxdVfkUtpQR_a5qhm5NjgOlKFzp0Mmi8nAPvp4errghYzzEkYr3u_h_nG0QS8F4QgAOcU_mduJK5MMm9qszAxYpRI7OjLVaxUjN36xXx2jaKavChJqxGYCHvjmZKlo/s320/IMAG0426.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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After:<br />
<img border="0" height="320" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjolDvBF6tNEfJfuVHAwQp-4Jby4fj7rTtplsX5TGAxf3k9IbsllV2EDRjFBtM_D2hmUE2KA61FrFQLog7Ad01K-MBHh8tWRXTZbF1XNn0WCyuSrO35bHNaEgW8mAz00SLrjIBEbsI_Yrk/s320/IMAG0438.jpg" width="239" /> <img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztiprXTqf4w8HsxZRaL9MMCWcsKD5eucTSadfkrHSDKQTZE30atKewW8cdGHgGnc5LHGqr9cn0ICNQwBZrIed2_nHrF19lFz5Ft5Y_Jc1SdwKQ-cSsPZkppOr-peYAAq8b4hqM1ua12g/s320/IMAG0437.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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Once I had the lips removed, I cut the angle iron, drilled the bolt holes in both sides and utlized a threaded bolt hole on the bottom of the frame rails as an attachement point. Not sure what the threaded hole was originally for, but it suites my purposes quite well. You can see where the bumper bracket is in comparison to thethreaded hole I am using. <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1UJm3uuqikRticdBOuN-jtZA0ZBc8QnDWJ_QHoCXznyy5LJ0td5p_LcjPwRfuBXc1o2lzC-r3OC8yjYZ6382BK3y72cBA7UH7etFNXwAlcgJ34qIfLNRUYJSve14D3p8nnNU48iYpMKM/s1600/IMAG0425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1UJm3uuqikRticdBOuN-jtZA0ZBc8QnDWJ_QHoCXznyy5LJ0td5p_LcjPwRfuBXc1o2lzC-r3OC8yjYZ6382BK3y72cBA7UH7etFNXwAlcgJ34qIfLNRUYJSve14D3p8nnNU48iYpMKM/s320/IMAG0425.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lip has not been taken off in this pic. Bumper bracket on the far left just inside the picture. </td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>You can see also that I have not cut off the ends of the ar that extend past the frame rail. I may do that and create a plate that can I weld to the bar end and that extends up and on the outside of the frame rails to utlize the original bar hanger bolt holes (seen in the puicture above). That would give it both lateral and vertical support.<br />
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It also has taken me a lot of time to actually align the bolt holes with the angle iron and the cross bar (poor equipment and capabilities!). I also had to wallow the orignal hole a bit to accept 10mm bolts since I used a 3/8 drill bit. I love battery operated equipment, but my batteries kept dying and I am too cheap to buy a good corded drill (lots of waiting time during battery recharge!). Oh well.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWV4ErM5OlrEr8ErAv_FHQ9DFRS_5GcYrkDd4HpRCz8ZY7Yo_UuzSBv5AyBqStOg3Bcau0caXnEI-0ZdNsk5gKIYVmDt0ooXx8X70232aHgXrJsYTIp48J4aS3XAlLLxty1c_nUvw8RHM/s1600/IMAG0431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-50166744183109922852010-12-28T15:49:00.000-07:002010-12-28T15:49:37.393-07:00ECU Plugs -- Wiring DetailsI have been working further on the wiring for my conversion. At first when I saw the mess of harnesses that I pulled from the donor Subaru vehicle, I thought I would farm out the wiring work. Well, it turns out no one wanted to do it and/or no one was prepared to work on a 2001 OBDII wiring system when I started! Guess I'll save some money on this one.<br />
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As detailed in an earlier post, I worked through the harness and identified each connector one by one and taped and wrote the plug number and system info. I then started to windle the wiring down one wire at a time.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGxYf_GKXXU3VUKR4qi7eOhBQZJeQgdO21nySWX2vwZCC142-q8qG5qxGCeIY44VwWdXAUDnTQrGyrU92IGwoBpiNIUtQroA_dVxwsiL4loSbpOIgU3NolEoM_Dkq0p7m6wCQvVjhT_8/s1600/IMAG0296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGxYf_GKXXU3VUKR4qi7eOhBQZJeQgdO21nySWX2vwZCC142-q8qG5qxGCeIY44VwWdXAUDnTQrGyrU92IGwoBpiNIUtQroA_dVxwsiL4loSbpOIgU3NolEoM_Dkq0p7m6wCQvVjhT_8/s400/IMAG0296.jpg" width="238" /></a><br />
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And ended up with a big mess of unuseful wires!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxfthDXkFDS8Kxlxis8x495KjgsuFhJs5bayiaMYsSnSimfbbSNLFPfYUh7DBaH1Hi9St-QhkcEOtkx9zIpW3ZhJ4YHGlrF42PthHZQnTX0re9ppSEdltIdTY4VjAw86glYpKWUSjYNZw/s1600/IMAG0295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxfthDXkFDS8Kxlxis8x495KjgsuFhJs5bayiaMYsSnSimfbbSNLFPfYUh7DBaH1Hi9St-QhkcEOtkx9zIpW3ZhJ4YHGlrF42PthHZQnTX0re9ppSEdltIdTY4VjAw86glYpKWUSjYNZw/s400/IMAG0295.jpg" width="238" /></a><br />
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I then started detailing the wires from each of the three plugs going from the ECU out to the subsystems and captured all of the pertinent info in docs (connector number (male and female), wire color, and terminal numbers from/to each connector and subsytem each wire belongs to). Please be advised that this information my be incorrect (tired, blurry eyes) and use it at your discretion. Also please note that the wiring schematics are for a 2001 USA Subaru Impreza with a 2.2l N/A engine and an automatic transmission. I am also retaining the radiator system and the A/C system and running fans and components for eac directly from the ECU.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRgZubdD7kJ_aGyOFL93zd1SvyBjCSoqIb-VA0i8voFTHzXB5w-U94H_Lw3lbrH-anHfYP-excletBGYanf_JcfKJgfU-AFtDS71NRW7tvcgOVtHA35fwU7etb3dktA-p4ETm6I6s5s8s/s1600/ECU+Wiring+A_Page_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRgZubdD7kJ_aGyOFL93zd1SvyBjCSoqIb-VA0i8voFTHzXB5w-U94H_Lw3lbrH-anHfYP-excletBGYanf_JcfKJgfU-AFtDS71NRW7tvcgOVtHA35fwU7etb3dktA-p4ETm6I6s5s8s/s640/ECU+Wiring+A_Page_1.jpg" width="492" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxfthDXkFDS8Kxlxis8x495KjgsuFhJs5bayiaMYsSnSimfbbSNLFPfYUh7DBaH1Hi9St-QhkcEOtkx9zIpW3ZhJ4YHGlrF42PthHZQnTX0re9ppSEdltIdTY4VjAw86glYpKWUSjYNZw/s1600/IMAG0295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-75942453206924914772010-12-28T12:20:00.000-07:002010-12-28T12:25:44.992-07:00A/C Cooler and rear heater<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL_95PoRPE1rRXd5CsbqwkGCRr0_rCGuagenJNqKlNV7JD027yg_dFpWlvcYWemmphjmqLO-VulB9MZFuhFRY_e-hORZMuVPyq5teda2uVQt64xnvkZAQxLuVPdszOILLcrgI1JgoP4HE/s1600/IMAG0337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL_95PoRPE1rRXd5CsbqwkGCRr0_rCGuagenJNqKlNV7JD027yg_dFpWlvcYWemmphjmqLO-VulB9MZFuhFRY_e-hORZMuVPyq5teda2uVQt64xnvkZAQxLuVPdszOILLcrgI1JgoP4HE/s320/IMAG0337.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> First up is the rear heater. I snagged a rear heater assembly from a salvaged Vanagon in my local salvage yard. It was pretty dirty and I am not entirely sure that the core is good. There was evidence that perhaps some leaking had occurred simply based on the junky gook that coated the outside of the core when I picked it up. I suppose I could run water through it to see if it hoold, I just haven't yet.<br />
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The idea will be to place it in the rear of the bus under the Z-bed. It will take up some space, but I'd rather have heat then an extra cubic foot of space. <br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The potential negative of placing the heater assembly under the Z-Bed is that the lower access door will need to be removed and replaced by a vent of some sort, or the door itself will need to be modified.</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqZ-jH09jvxc2uKJyTAYmdrhc32DvJ4x4ZMkv5A9E2K2teu5EBw4fYZUJHVbvre8pM02njejytrmBg77ILPz-O2Yg-axkS7dsg0Lt3BxyXCHZyEBj_qFbiM30v7kXceIuMxEb3twxIaY/s1600/IMAG0340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqZ-jH09jvxc2uKJyTAYmdrhc32DvJ4x4ZMkv5A9E2K2teu5EBw4fYZUJHVbvre8pM02njejytrmBg77ILPz-O2Yg-axkS7dsg0Lt3BxyXCHZyEBj_qFbiM30v7kXceIuMxEb3twxIaY/s320/IMAG0340.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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I will also need to creat some kind of mounting system. I am thinking about removing the orginal vent tube to route my heater lines through so I don't have to cut or drill holes in the floor.<br />
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The next step is to figure out placement of the A/C cooler. I am considering two options: one is to mount the A/C cooler under the radiator so the airflow and dual electric fans can be used on both the A/C cooler and the radiator. I don't know exactly how much protrusion this will create under the bus. Once I start mocking up the air duct system for the radiator, I will take some measurements and make a decision. <br />
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Option #2 is to mount the Subaru A/C cooler on the outside of the framerail between the rocker panel (where the propane tank usually sits).<br />
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The only problem with this approach is that it will require additional fans, relays, and wiring to the underside. And since I don't have the additional fans, I am not sure how far down the whole system would sit below the rocker panel... Mounting the A/C cooler under the radiator would prevent the need for that extra work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBG9fW1AvQC88dh5lFnlNslWQNXC6shHN8IeGEne6pK_7kxAnZ36VVc080stgNr4DtUV36S-gl5LhW4nT6c1PhynWtkzwnoYPZsCeG-_lnyATHl4enZvFamTgyMlrp5MbbqZGY2nb0bKc/s1600/IMAG0345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBG9fW1AvQC88dh5lFnlNslWQNXC6shHN8IeGEne6pK_7kxAnZ36VVc080stgNr4DtUV36S-gl5LhW4nT6c1PhynWtkzwnoYPZsCeG-_lnyATHl4enZvFamTgyMlrp5MbbqZGY2nb0bKc/s320/IMAG0345.jpg" width="320" /></a>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-6866314256655806282010-12-23T11:18:00.000-07:002010-12-23T11:31:23.656-07:00Engine installationWith the engine and transmission mated together, it was time to roll the unit under the bus and get it bolted in! The process actually went very smoothly. I had to take the throttle body off to fit the unit under the bus (I lifted only the rear passenger side of the bus just enough to roll the unit under). I had the motorcycle jack under the engine and a hydraulic floor jack under the transmission to support both ends. Once the unit was under the bus, I lowered the rear corner and slowly started to jack up the engine first, then the transmission and continued this way until the everything was up and aligned. <br />
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I bolted the rear (front of the bus) of the transmission first and then started working on the two bolts that attach to the upper cross member. You can see the close fit against the fire wall after I reinstalled the reverse throttle body. Without the reverse and in stock location, there would just be no way to squeeze an air intake pipe on the throttle body.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had a slightly harder time getting the bolt holes to align on the upper cross bar. After poking around, I realized that the heater pipes on the passenger side where interfering and not allowing the engine and transmission to completely lift as high as necessary ( I am not using a reversed coolant manifold; it stayed in stock orientation). I used a cheater bar and gently, very gently, bent the top most heater pipe down just enough to allow the engine/transmission to achieve full height. Once I did that, the bolt holes on the upper engine cross member aligned with no problem! </div><br />
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I had to make one other modification to fit the engine and that was with the original airbox support bar. In stock form, it interfered with the Subaru oil filler cap and also prevented the engine from fully sitting in the bay. I had to bend just enough of the end up to allow the oil filler cap to fit properly. The metal was brittle enough that as I bent it up, it just snapped off, resulting in a shorter section of the original air box support bracket. Oops. Non-returnable modification #1.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6hIWbdXeitMh0ooKrNib3CUgAuaQrT-rXUnp0-YJneFYO0gpbJjuTpcBY4cDtYHEhQQCR2gPAotSXzihimuowgw_7bYP16DcWmLjvc9fY949Sr9X4wfhvI44g5usPnTxAUsrx_yC0EWI/s1600/IMAG0326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6hIWbdXeitMh0ooKrNib3CUgAuaQrT-rXUnp0-YJneFYO0gpbJjuTpcBY4cDtYHEhQQCR2gPAotSXzihimuowgw_7bYP16DcWmLjvc9fY949Sr9X4wfhvI44g5usPnTxAUsrx_yC0EWI/s320/IMAG0326.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Everything else went on pretty smoothly. I reconnected all of the transmission accelerator lines from the pedal assembly to the new Small Car throatytle cable set up. Everything fit perfectly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxsfM-jpcQdZiAsyRDFdWBWOqDE4GKxQHseqWP0lJd4utROHeCrtaeXFwC9RV_90S7Lp2tV0w0ytH2NwtJoOkY6EYH_JAYWRRTuUx86e6qn5ZGVnOYfeUesVbszce_JNf1TKnkp_FiDo/s1600/IMAG0331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxsfM-jpcQdZiAsyRDFdWBWOqDE4GKxQHseqWP0lJd4utROHeCrtaeXFwC9RV_90S7Lp2tV0w0ytH2NwtJoOkY6EYH_JAYWRRTuUx86e6qn5ZGVnOYfeUesVbszce_JNf1TKnkp_FiDo/s320/IMAG0331.jpg" width="191" /></a></div><br />
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Because of the reversed throttle body set up, my accelerator cable in stock form is slightly too far forward and ends up sitting almost exactly below the housing. I think it will work in this arrangement, but I may try to move the cable retaining clip further toward the rear of the bus to give a better arc from the end of the cable housing to the throttle assembly (so the upperward bend isn't so sharp). I think this will be easily achieved be taking the cable retaining clip and simply flipping it 180 degrees...I may loose my spark plug wire holder clip, but oh well.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6td2miwnPPS9bQ9g0iZZHxiDtKfp51khZxRJ3NtNxb_Lh9QZH4XaZ5Tb3GMBi3NTYyFLwXnlwxhXtLqz2tMav2t_zyM5SAzlsa_JKShNI7XqX4G_QMJ8pXzlM5SjTyjqyq4u38HCdqU8/s1600/IMAG0334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6td2miwnPPS9bQ9g0iZZHxiDtKfp51khZxRJ3NtNxb_Lh9QZH4XaZ5Tb3GMBi3NTYyFLwXnlwxhXtLqz2tMav2t_zyM5SAzlsa_JKShNI7XqX4G_QMJ8pXzlM5SjTyjqyq4u38HCdqU8/s320/IMAG0334.jpg" width="191" /></a></div><br />
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Next up is getting the rear cross bar modified to fit. I am using the Small Car engine mount system and purchased the two inner and two outer rubber mounts. This set up is intended for a Vanagon install, so either a custom cross bar needs to be created to fit, or a Vanagon cross bar modified to fit. I choose to go the latter route.<br />
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<img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUt1SZsjDaG4zDL1QtZtbn7BCsX2cFEcFXnhGu2oPJpUDw-fHRSMkm-zIuqe7n4WP00M7xTo2YTcYHshn7m5p8Ds0ElS0HYWdYwuAIUfu1UiT7xdl3bPyOv8ep8b38-nzLGsyQsDTOa0/s320/IMAG0258.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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I found a Vangaon rear engine cross bar at my local slavage yard for pretty cheap. The first thing that had to be done was to cut out the orginal framerail brackets since they were too tall (didn't allow the bolt holes on the bar to align with the rubber mounts) and too wide (the frame rail distance apart is different on a Bay versus a Vanagon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipuXRYGxRNPZfvFjK_Euxr6_C8NQK6bX0UY1sKVquUqoQagf9FFnxnLdbuxYvZ0CJy5ENrLUtGfnLwDXOksPYnwxu4IM2jn3sSeGSPrgSiIJNKp3VE205wWRfRzqQm2-CYhfkTDu4zQUU/s1600/IMAG0321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipuXRYGxRNPZfvFjK_Euxr6_C8NQK6bX0UY1sKVquUqoQagf9FFnxnLdbuxYvZ0CJy5ENrLUtGfnLwDXOksPYnwxu4IM2jn3sSeGSPrgSiIJNKp3VE205wWRfRzqQm2-CYhfkTDu4zQUU/s320/IMAG0321.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Once I had the framerail brackets off, I test fitted again and realized the bar is still a bit too tall to fit, meaning the top of the engine cross bar hits the bottom of the frame rail before the bolt holes fully align. It is off only by a 1/4 inch at most. I marked up the location and width of the frame rail on each side of the engine cross bar and will have to cut the end off and recess the top of the bar a 1/4 of an inch plus the thickness of a steel plat that will be fabricated to mount to the bottom and wrap up the outside of the framerails. I haven't gotten to that point yet but hopefully will shortly after the holidays. I'll try to take some exact measurements and post those for any interested.<br />
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<img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieAYedLfo8qAEAR4OM9EaOiEZdcuFv_1_f84C-nVpg79XvnnbhOxawkwdVQ6AJiDJVPW4dCzjvBt6OTj3cwjJKhOfZrLcmE8HqjFHMFfo8DRE2avhP0ajPxX_RdINftfKJPc6lemPcvqw/s320/IMAG0322.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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Next up is the radiator placement and duct work, the fitment of a rear (Vanagon) heater asembly, and the A/C cooler and system install.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-66512262902302240452010-11-19T11:00:00.000-07:002010-11-19T11:18:57.416-07:00The matingThe engine and transmission are together finally after what has felt like an eternity. It is all the small things that add up to time delays. <br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I was able to get a little more work done and installed the new KEP hub and flex plate, got the adapter bolted to the engine, </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> <br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8jXFLbsgVkDluJAAsLuZ_rYAvE2kSOSlgoMaLCUpJZOfRSjUhos0mcEL0mDeEH3TbEN5eRrRrckawxTfm6-aGaBipnkDTIXK1qXGdLUO_gKLizu8ibbanTPTqI9z5hKHemcg09tTvRM/s1600/IMAG0272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8jXFLbsgVkDluJAAsLuZ_rYAvE2kSOSlgoMaLCUpJZOfRSjUhos0mcEL0mDeEH3TbEN5eRrRrckawxTfm6-aGaBipnkDTIXK1qXGdLUO_gKLizu8ibbanTPTqI9z5hKHemcg09tTvRM/s320/IMAG0272.jpg" width="191" /></a>and the torque converter in. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I am now excited to get the combo installed in the bus so I can focus on the wiring and running the cooling set up, heater set up and A/C. I feel vaguely guilty that the starter is still grimy while the rest of the transmission is looking good.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAYCgdYp0KScNhFd_MTgYrVO-lYbRoratuA_N07cQhmP131dXO8W-gMZ6ePDAVnA6B4Sz2MA_71PmBw8cWA8wkuCgCTz8RgNDvxos8pk6cz-WRoLTUHrDqhpqz5f4i_vRWxHQIEZVnnc/s1600/IMAG0273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAYCgdYp0KScNhFd_MTgYrVO-lYbRoratuA_N07cQhmP131dXO8W-gMZ6ePDAVnA6B4Sz2MA_71PmBw8cWA8wkuCgCTz8RgNDvxos8pk6cz-WRoLTUHrDqhpqz5f4i_vRWxHQIEZVnnc/s320/IMAG0273.jpg" width="191" /></a> </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I used German Specialties for the transmission reseal and while the finished work looks good, I will not go back. Enough said.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div>I still need to have the rear mounting bar built to fit the Small Car mount system and Vanagon rubber mounts. Once I get the engine and transmission positioned and the transmission bolted in place, I will have BMF take the specs and dimensions to build the bar. A cinch strap will have to suffice for a short while to support the rear (front) of the engine until the bar is built and ready to install.<br />
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Another custom piece will be the radiator shroud/air duct, which I intend to have BMF build as well. The radiator and fans have arrived so I can start specing that out now. Getting closer...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjoRU38vkrSZhbTAkxGgE9zUW2DnQmoX35c7EbxI4BMHWS8osP6DJWHt4hJ9-l8udt6_EqOgPWK5R1Q7lOwXxAztP_l8IiQD5vWUTnklQc-5TE-FsNQ4Q78-XpAmo-KSAAepHLo3sClY/s1600/IMAG0277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjoRU38vkrSZhbTAkxGgE9zUW2DnQmoX35c7EbxI4BMHWS8osP6DJWHt4hJ9-l8udt6_EqOgPWK5R1Q7lOwXxAztP_l8IiQD5vWUTnklQc-5TE-FsNQ4Q78-XpAmo-KSAAepHLo3sClY/s320/IMAG0277.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWUVMThQZrMIWhvkzr3w2vYo0Zyr6IPDPpmJDlnybDoQPMLDStEPEgmu4KHh-FGibsIxU3xm6wSTgc5sXRi-4icDfuFaCF-cGkvdvBL5eYP7yAolmEo12ma8pYYHZXtOUG55UTe1oHi0/s1600/IMAG0278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWUVMThQZrMIWhvkzr3w2vYo0Zyr6IPDPpmJDlnybDoQPMLDStEPEgmu4KHh-FGibsIxU3xm6wSTgc5sXRi-4icDfuFaCF-cGkvdvBL5eYP7yAolmEo12ma8pYYHZXtOUG55UTe1oHi0/s320/IMAG0278.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOF2NMCsBCUZhVOcTFbxuptK2D5I2R8iUNcVw2v-GFMqIl33QIoR8JNhR23ZOdUAJtgTGl1rR1cOdnlMuDEM2wJNYktUm9utg6kN8bwQNXN-NVhFNUF_vnsHwFZBvtXy_mymqI_EDSjNE/s1600/IMAG0274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-45867656365050097612010-11-10T10:00:00.001-07:002010-11-10T13:20:38.418-07:00Catching upIt has been awhile since my last post, but that doesn't mean I haven't been working forward on the conversion.<br /><br /><div><div><div>I have finally buttoned the engine up. </div><div><br />I have installed the Small Car shortened oil pan.</div><div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxS4NOpPEip3hS2XuufLIZSYJkePLnC_9MnCY8DgvYdgWaczTgJwbjQjYEDVL0j6HqsXWyRYXu6-Sb8wiPQrfZbUoiAuRnEsYDR5fkppZZRbqdXBkn1Am-1KwCBC1ePcLMz1L0bDSYVQ/s1600/Smallcar+Oil+Pan.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538012051768145586" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxS4NOpPEip3hS2XuufLIZSYJkePLnC_9MnCY8DgvYdgWaczTgJwbjQjYEDVL0j6HqsXWyRYXu6-Sb8wiPQrfZbUoiAuRnEsYDR5fkppZZRbqdXBkn1Am-1KwCBC1ePcLMz1L0bDSYVQ/s320/Smallcar+Oil+Pan.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>I have the Small Car engine mount installed, Vanagon rubber mounts, and will be building a custom cross bar to fit the Small Car mount system and work with my frame rails. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjHWMmoToVLHF8fF2p90npY7fkRDtl9bPlriFf1w4dNK-7e1dILzjXFPafP0RXbrXNmomA6qsjN9UUZkMwZc3dsscF6dh1g-1P40-AOt4Q-tRm9IVox0KpRSj9zY5T87AXkW3SfYNGg7c/s1600/Engine+mount+with+Vanagon+rubbers.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538013298188406402" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjHWMmoToVLHF8fF2p90npY7fkRDtl9bPlriFf1w4dNK-7e1dILzjXFPafP0RXbrXNmomA6qsjN9UUZkMwZc3dsscF6dh1g-1P40-AOt4Q-tRm9IVox0KpRSj9zY5T87AXkW3SfYNGg7c/s320/Engine+mount+with+Vanagon+rubbers.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br />I came across a post on <a href="http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/index.php">aussieveedubbers forums</a> from <a href="http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38417&page=1">Hellbus</a> who worked with Custom VeeDub, which used to be Custom Offroad (COR), out of Australia to build a throttle body reverser. I decided that I would do the same thing and avoid the troubles of reversing the manifold, reversing the wiring harness, and avoid having to relocate the alternator and A/C compressor. With the reverser, everything stays stock!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnq5wN-aqXvkMT4h_Db6JjpFss5HPfjw50R_XP_1CYMK7Xkudu0kCMHzUheV3zXkCjS4mvjiWWcU2lsLiWaBDB7peSWFXRlhdQWdsD8po7AokjjzjneZhQiCmSms1NDtLE8YH2b6riOk/s1600/Throttle+Reverser+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538013771450580738" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnq5wN-aqXvkMT4h_Db6JjpFss5HPfjw50R_XP_1CYMK7Xkudu0kCMHzUheV3zXkCjS4mvjiWWcU2lsLiWaBDB7peSWFXRlhdQWdsD8po7AokjjzjneZhQiCmSms1NDtLE8YH2b6riOk/s320/Throttle+Reverser+1.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvl-w40caseuz9-BH4pgv2AZ_pAmIpY9a2SbqeRUluw2UJvUJjMQdFBCflfelN1nb4vI7s0JIJCy8JyEA14x0Ze5YQRtsdqiqautBZ5XsxbikSlRHNXsimGA5zTzcHFkCD8EzBEREB4T4/s1600/Throttle+Reverser+3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538014634904237554" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvl-w40caseuz9-BH4pgv2AZ_pAmIpY9a2SbqeRUluw2UJvUJjMQdFBCflfelN1nb4vI7s0JIJCy8JyEA14x0Ze5YQRtsdqiqautBZ5XsxbikSlRHNXsimGA5zTzcHFkCD8EzBEREB4T4/s320/Throttle+Reverser+3.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhohpDWAn_3E5cI-e-a5cOkxzfTmG_KHwgkN81YVXhpkbU2cvfTmF61K1Z6jXkmjpzxGK-MIXrECsrBsAFVBPyQYaao7UhL-Lw1dLRtdqKSEwb-haSl9O6BY_JByopVUmfTKPaeTiOTunI/s1600/Throttle+Reverser+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538013778820583986" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 191px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhohpDWAn_3E5cI-e-a5cOkxzfTmG_KHwgkN81YVXhpkbU2cvfTmF61K1Z6jXkmjpzxGK-MIXrECsrBsAFVBPyQYaao7UhL-Lw1dLRtdqKSEwb-haSl9O6BY_JByopVUmfTKPaeTiOTunI/s320/Throttle+Reverser+2.jpg" border="0" /></a></div></div><div><div></div><div>I am using BMF Perf. out of Brighton, CO. Chris is the owner and he does fantastic work at reasonable rates. Take a close look at his welds on the throttle body reverser!</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div>Other small tasks I have completed are to install the flexible dip stick tube, finish up the gas tank reinstall, order a custom radiator with dual pusher fans from <a href="http://www.wizardcooling.com/">Wizard Cooling</a>, which hopefully will be here in about a week (pic to come!). I am working with Chris from BMF Performance to create a custom air duct and scoop to fit the radiator between the frame rails.</div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqhB8LmvSu4FVEtgqwKVuIfBEwSOvc0rlhV2wSyZdYHLR5cF49jdEAUCfEYaJ9LGKxYxIQ9xISRE2sQmn64CGKPCzlPsDIY0diMYGjvCYrwcNG8_dEjNfvz5YVe_qIt19neJkDOHi1hUE/s1600/Flexible+dipstick.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538015026577002146" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqhB8LmvSu4FVEtgqwKVuIfBEwSOvc0rlhV2wSyZdYHLR5cF49jdEAUCfEYaJ9LGKxYxIQ9xISRE2sQmn64CGKPCzlPsDIY0diMYGjvCYrwcNG8_dEjNfvz5YVe_qIt19neJkDOHi1hUE/s320/Flexible+dipstick.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div>I have also dropped the transmission and differential for service. I ordered a reseal kit for both the transmission and the differential and drilled out the stud and nut hole on the top driver side of the bell housing to bolt on the adapter plate per KEP and <a href="http://www.subaruvanagon.com/tom/Auto%20tranny.htm">Tom Shiels' instructions</a>.<br /></div><div></div><div>And finally, I have started in on the wiring harnesses. I have meticulously identified each and every connector on the engine harness, the front wiring harness in the engine bay and the bulkhead wiring harness in the cab. Each of the blue items is a piece of tape the denotes the wire number and function according the the wiring schematics out of the factory manual.<br /></div><div></div><div>This is a shot of the Front wiring harness with the connectors all identified with blue tape.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuaKU-cwylp7olY6CdyRuGX5qpu1y6BnfAsGXbsBcBO7g3rrie30H8ie21dzBHy6Qe3FmAehqyujBrX8syem9YxPnXFy7WaPr9yGKaUFYXKCU7_baNBIio6Yub1yPX0u2RoyC_TQO3Kk/s1600/40+Front+Wiring+Harness.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537980537981060866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuaKU-cwylp7olY6CdyRuGX5qpu1y6BnfAsGXbsBcBO7g3rrie30H8ie21dzBHy6Qe3FmAehqyujBrX8syem9YxPnXFy7WaPr9yGKaUFYXKCU7_baNBIio6Yub1yPX0u2RoyC_TQO3Kk/s320/40+Front+Wiring+Harness.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is the location and function guide. The red lines suggest the components of the wiring harness I will delete and remove from the harness. I cut the harness just before it crosses the front of the car and this may have been a mistake. I may need to extend and re-wire some of the harness to fit my application.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO-qIwFkqMM5cx2Dd-OEO_QD4PVk8clIZG1hAJqrJMB3J_qDDvEGFmTVWvyZyVy9EhmF5wjVD-C_erh8ODMq684sVt8f-SBX-FFgPVMfgXSTsCMTw-4zqsrgwv6kgTfT3BFR7_yUlH_Xo/s1600/40+Front+Wiring+Harness+Location+Delete+Version.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537973921823327330" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 239px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO-qIwFkqMM5cx2Dd-OEO_QD4PVk8clIZG1hAJqrJMB3J_qDDvEGFmTVWvyZyVy9EhmF5wjVD-C_erh8ODMq684sVt8f-SBX-FFgPVMfgXSTsCMTw-4zqsrgwv6kgTfT3BFR7_yUlH_Xo/s320/40+Front+Wiring+Harness+Location+Delete+Version.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>Here is a shot of the bulkhead wiring in the engine bay: </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_MLIwaY4lLEy6gEZzksh3503OeE1JcigPCovSrxQqcOdkcoauOCZYEXCe_V8cc5EjaElSTQkk9o_YOtmSQSpd_rF0euSlAgTIcG1875Ulcwm-uh8zKJrnZe_4sD0IuDRJvOcfpcz1qtg/s1600/41+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537975253642692642" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_MLIwaY4lLEy6gEZzksh3503OeE1JcigPCovSrxQqcOdkcoauOCZYEXCe_V8cc5EjaElSTQkk9o_YOtmSQSpd_rF0euSlAgTIcG1875Ulcwm-uh8zKJrnZe_4sD0IuDRJvOcfpcz1qtg/s320/41+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>And this is the intended delete list for removal:</div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7h_lMXUn5CoE8HY2d239jz5dQGLq3rJe46PEp41oDbndOZjlMgREHunxwHYzwKCqC1R6IjSEnuEz7ZcwOVqbzS_wr9LCPKnJ8eRrUSVorSw7ZpJGzMbtenbsb_3FKM82pijFRj4cAG6w/s1600/41+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness+in+Engine+Room+Delete+Version.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537973930742869586" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 226px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7h_lMXUn5CoE8HY2d239jz5dQGLq3rJe46PEp41oDbndOZjlMgREHunxwHYzwKCqC1R6IjSEnuEz7ZcwOVqbzS_wr9LCPKnJ8eRrUSVorSw7ZpJGzMbtenbsb_3FKM82pijFRj4cAG6w/s320/41+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness+in+Engine+Room+Delete+Version.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br />Here is the in-compartment bulkhead wiring:</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioH0u_l9Dr_Jgv5nk2k2FrniVUcVn68lszYFWPIgQVwRT3LJmAPilNrJnoO8v9oBYOlEcEFfrwTMj0BOkjTPhonMhJMQLw8VNOppR4C6KSmF45_i4hGLRkVExw6bQD6eSKAGhsS4sbOYo/s1600/42+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537973932471243618" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 191px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioH0u_l9Dr_Jgv5nk2k2FrniVUcVn68lszYFWPIgQVwRT3LJmAPilNrJnoO8v9oBYOlEcEFfrwTMj0BOkjTPhonMhJMQLw8VNOppR4C6KSmF45_i4hGLRkVExw6bQD6eSKAGhsS4sbOYo/s320/42+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>And the delete list:</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDEAR5LLWXkQpNI9OsyX5Aufk5VLssNtevLMkrKVtbT4Q8TajpfuXBCqhIF9Zaa4FvbKFqQxlnwX3RBG4mQw08czZQwsUAN9IeeDCydbFbEnIzvxcHAdyxjSEjnDxTbZvMkhvkPbv5KqU/s1600/42+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness+In+Compartment+Delete+Version.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537974187644908162" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 231px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDEAR5LLWXkQpNI9OsyX5Aufk5VLssNtevLMkrKVtbT4Q8TajpfuXBCqhIF9Zaa4FvbKFqQxlnwX3RBG4mQw08czZQwsUAN9IeeDCydbFbEnIzvxcHAdyxjSEjnDxTbZvMkhvkPbv5KqU/s320/42+Bulkhead+Wiring+Harness+In+Compartment+Delete+Version.jpg" border="0" /></a></div></div></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-10797631394362543892010-10-08T13:55:00.001-06:002010-10-08T14:13:16.337-06:00Timing Belt<div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisVeAjhPWqLRY-KP1uNCvm65jTkxlFtLp_utNQM-NEd-I1k9pclcbscrXLl_21w54CgTTSg38s-oSwSuuSKQDihbv00avEpnpFvdCRfvsLRMMIRuzEtCIwfdNI5oPODc092749zLv64ns/s1600/DSC08029.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525766506871419362" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisVeAjhPWqLRY-KP1uNCvm65jTkxlFtLp_utNQM-NEd-I1k9pclcbscrXLl_21w54CgTTSg38s-oSwSuuSKQDihbv00avEpnpFvdCRfvsLRMMIRuzEtCIwfdNI5oPODc092749zLv64ns/s320/DSC08029.JPG" border="0" /></a>Next project up is to change the timing belt on the Subaru engine. I purchased a Gates complete kit with new <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">tensioner</span> and pulleys/gears from the local <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">CarQuest</span> since I just know very little about this engine and access the timing belt is a lot easier on the stand then in the car.<br /></div><div></div><div>First step is to remove the crank <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">pulley</span> and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">tensioner</span>. Then on to the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">plastic</span> timing belt cover. Easy enough<br /></div><div> </div><div> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISjaysS2amz-dWIE9P-pjRG9khTabQSDIw8A_cP6taG14vm0Uv8BQLQc6iogzjUHRXYUtLnlR0eWdpbsd0JAuq_44WYmygjzUlsh9_8oFoJvU9GuF5RPPVf2kxrMGTt_zwX59okZ2KAA/s1600/DSC08033.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525768631080862002" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISjaysS2amz-dWIE9P-pjRG9khTabQSDIw8A_cP6taG14vm0Uv8BQLQc6iogzjUHRXYUtLnlR0eWdpbsd0JAuq_44WYmygjzUlsh9_8oFoJvU9GuF5RPPVf2kxrMGTt_zwX59okZ2KAA/s320/DSC08033.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div>For the most part, this was a pretty straight forward project. I followed a technical forum write up by <a href="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1794043&highlight=meaty+s+timing+belt">Meaty</a> on North American Subaru <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Impreza</span> Owners Club Website as well as the instructions that came with the kit and the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">pdf</span> service manual, which I downloaded from Ken Gilbert's <a href="http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals">Website</a>. All three were slightly different in instruction, so I had to make some decisions along the way.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div> </div><div>The biggest worry I had was regarding the right side cam gear timing mark. I actually had two different marks, a white paint dot and an engraved dash in the gear face itself with pink paint.</div><div> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU46cHcD6MLZm2OzCuRVKiSPCmmmWJ0XXp9n2g9W4OtZejHHjD85rnZXQzEqTE6NcD7YoSG4HgWMEqop3uKbWjW0o7IJUXLE9cDHpDpz048iE1sc_CLs2108qgCTsRuth72bzA2ip0xFM/s1600/DSC08030.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525768435879924850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU46cHcD6MLZm2OzCuRVKiSPCmmmWJ0XXp9n2g9W4OtZejHHjD85rnZXQzEqTE6NcD7YoSG4HgWMEqop3uKbWjW0o7IJUXLE9cDHpDpz048iE1sc_CLs2108qgCTsRuth72bzA2ip0xFM/s320/DSC08030.JPG" border="0" /></a>In the end, I went with the physical indented dash with the pink dot. I followed the instructions, lined the belt up appropriately, double checked everything, and then pulled the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">tensioner</span> key to put the belt under tension.</div><div> </div><div>The time of judgement came after when I rotated the crank two full revolutions to see if all three timing markets still lined up again.</div><div> </div><div>Yes = Did it right</div><div>No = Did it wrong</div><div> </div><div> </div><div>My results YES = Did it right!<br /></div><div></div></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-69732220364432669092010-10-08T13:08:00.001-06:002010-10-08T13:53:59.486-06:00Air Intake Manifold and Throttle Body<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd_yyqZNsHJYzCOK61JaTziNYowuk-Lb2BcRxE3e1yHnI3Iu9KcN3LE0MfdSowyVuRYp48yR7Lmukt1TTCqC7g-23hrjV5w8pcXh5T91OT2C4-q7QlsNO4MMCUqlUL-aM5DcNSDLTTfU/s1600/DSC08013.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525756232462091842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd_yyqZNsHJYzCOK61JaTziNYowuk-Lb2BcRxE3e1yHnI3Iu9KcN3LE0MfdSowyVuRYp48yR7Lmukt1TTCqC7g-23hrjV5w8pcXh5T91OT2C4-q7QlsNO4MMCUqlUL-aM5DcNSDLTTfU/s320/DSC08013.JPG" border="0" /></a>Here is a top look at the air intake manifold and throttle body (taped up). As it sits in stock position, the manifold has the throttle body facing toward the transmission. Fine in a Subaru, but in a Bus it won't work. <div><div><div><br /></div><p>If you notice how close the throttle body extends in relation to th<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAws4Tkco6O-Rk4yvoak-G1nWuEIj93JWtMU-iRJsF_uFCJ5ebndUTs4h-o95DW9FvQd8NA1NfQfxPWTBDo45KBaRyrPtwMmwuwNEsxUmL3ROrd1dgNciv5JPPd2RjoO5NMksq97uueSs/s1600/DSC08026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525757066198311906" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAws4Tkco6O-Rk4yvoak-G1nWuEIj93JWtMU-iRJsF_uFCJ5ebndUTs4h-o95DW9FvQd8NA1NfQfxPWTBDo45KBaRyrPtwMmwuwNEsxUmL3ROrd1dgNciv5JPPd2RjoO5NMksq97uueSs/s320/DSC08026.JPG" border="0" /></a>e engine mating surface for the transmission, and if you think about the alignment of the VW transmission bellhouse almost inline with the firewall above, you can see that there is going to be a conflict. There is no way to attach an air intake pipe/filter to the throttle body without interfering with the firewall and gas tank.</p><p>The most common remedy for this is to flip the throttle body 180* and then flip the wiring harness 180* again so the fuel injectors still fire in <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdvuiCzoeCzFPplv9NUws7ZaEfclAsfeNBL1is8DmWwhHNKRBIQ8By_0BA34w0gDpQ4mELVEidPGjDpd9U0OV8As9ocap9p1oMAMDcFw-EVIltiCoGhkgdiZX0A-3YLpUQogusou0UV0/s1600/air+intake+manifold2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525758871915800658" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdvuiCzoeCzFPplv9NUws7ZaEfclAsfeNBL1is8DmWwhHNKRBIQ8By_0BA34w0gDpQ4mELVEidPGjDpd9U0OV8As9ocap9p1oMAMDcFw-EVIltiCoGhkgdiZX0A-3YLpUQogusou0UV0/s320/air+intake+manifold2.jpg" border="0" /></a>the correct order. The problem with this solution is that the throttle body then intrudes into the space that the alternator normally sits, requiring a custom fabricated bracket system to reposition the alternator where the a/c compressor normally sits. </p><p>My dilemma is that I am not sure I want to screw around with fabricating a bracket, and there are none to purchase aftermarket right now. Richard at RJES is potentially going to sell an off the shelf alternator bracket to help this problem, but it is not available currently. An added problem is that this solution eliminates the possibility of an A/C compressor since the alternator has to be be repositioned to the spot the A/C compressor us ally sits. I kind of like the idea of retaining the A/C compressor so we can have air conditioning. Windows down with a two year old and a 10 month old is not always a good thing.</p><p>However, the alternative to reversing the manifold is to modify the firewall or potentially run without the firewall (may not be a smart choice without a fire repression system installed). AND, I don't know of the air intake pipe will even fit without the firewall due to the gas tank. I have to mock the engine up in place to see what type of, if any at all, clearance I have.</p><p>In the meantime, I pulled the intake manifold off. </p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvzuMbdsTtL-6hGsOas493Hxki8ktXsbRIojZaRAYXDLWgE_BBywBwbeOg0ePN2u8Kg2zojR9MAggH1ZxgOnrs-LmbKkzOyfsLB8WyK_Egxiy3-_ZbelSMiSlVZndTdckTl8K2ZXH6Vk/s1600/DSC08016.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525761361958877906" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvzuMbdsTtL-6hGsOas493Hxki8ktXsbRIojZaRAYXDLWgE_BBywBwbeOg0ePN2u8Kg2zojR9MAggH1ZxgOnrs-LmbKkzOyfsLB8WyK_Egxiy3-_ZbelSMiSlVZndTdckTl8K2ZXH6Vk/s320/DSC08016.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div><p></p><div>The coolant heater manifold sit underneath the intake manifold.<br /><br /></div><p></p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4oJo2ull_lZktwLa33wg565XaFTcLWgaQ59BW_EfC8jCATTWGQ9Wvt3hkT_RvFgtmSUf6QL5iZpTrPiBdYdvN95ddbxDYdeymJDdyvNjVBdsE49or38nOFXw8mZpAYvZGrVrkySUHwY/s1600/DSC08018.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525761833981597618" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4oJo2ull_lZktwLa33wg565XaFTcLWgaQ59BW_EfC8jCATTWGQ9Wvt3hkT_RvFgtmSUf6QL5iZpTrPiBdYdvN95ddbxDYdeymJDdyvNjVBdsE49or38nOFXw8mZpAYvZGrVrkySUHwY/s320/DSC08018.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A lot of people doing this conversion on Vanagon VW have the coolant manifold reversed to better fit and locate with the original Vanagaon coolant lines, which sit on the top passenger side of the engine compartment. Since I don't have stock radiator or lines to mate up, I don't have to reverse the coolant manifold. However, I am considering doing so since most/all radiator coolant schematics are based on this manifold being reversed. It is an added cost but it would make routing and plumbing against common schematics very easy. Tom Shiels has quite a bit of excellent info on coolant and radiator set ups on his <a href="http://www.subaruvanagon.com/tom/Cooling%20System.htm">Website</a> although it is all for Vanagon conversions not Bays like mine.<br /></div><div> </div><div>The decision to reverse the manifold or modify the firewall/fuel tank will have to wait until I can roll the engine under the bus and jack it up into rough position. Before I do that, I have to finish the tank restore project and replace the timing belt on the Subaru motor.<br /></div><p></p></div></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-62033183996836092212010-10-08T11:40:00.001-06:002010-10-08T12:48:20.124-06:00Fuel Tank Restore<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GmuZ-CBNgSvWkVgwMiCMyRfJLsrHUTB54xQFLXg8pzEF-Cx4qGNeo4uOUndiUFUVDSNLoEoGEwHzHM4Gikz6NBP41FMrBqwD6UsCrCQ6VCWLcRz-zEDrxWLNeiO7cZDA-uUpClmPWL0/s1600/DSC08010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525732741996004786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 173px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GmuZ-CBNgSvWkVgwMiCMyRfJLsrHUTB54xQFLXg8pzEF-Cx4qGNeo4uOUndiUFUVDSNLoEoGEwHzHM4Gikz6NBP41FMrBqwD6UsCrCQ6VCWLcRz-zEDrxWLNeiO7cZDA-uUpClmPWL0/s320/DSC08010.JPG" border="0" /></a> While I had the engine out, I decided to pull the gas tank. I had noticed that the filler tube on the gas inlet was cracked and potentially the cause for some of the strong gas fume smell inside the bus (we had to roll windows down quite a bit on the drive back from Santa Fe). The only way to replace this piece is to remove it from the inside, which requires pulling the tank out , which requires removing the engine.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Pulling the tank wasn't too hard with the engine out. I followed Richard <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Atwell's</span> <a href="http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelTankRestoration.html"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">DIY</span> Fuel Tank Restore</a> thread. I was shocked at the amount of rats nest hiding out behind the firewall after pulling it off.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV7U7hwAWS5F8KcxassukPe1a0NM3dyyaTOPoG4p3V3PKVT2TD6xTLKTJyRdnZqME75LTN3tT9OSlGCi3zeKJoIqzWEX8Pa2lcKrpNsmoUb9n_yOIQ6bToTx6IM5S1BIqm9Jv_Jh11pws/s1600/DSC08004.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525732536292036722" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV7U7hwAWS5F8KcxassukPe1a0NM3dyyaTOPoG4p3V3PKVT2TD6xTLKTJyRdnZqME75LTN3tT9OSlGCi3zeKJoIqzWEX8Pa2lcKrpNsmoUb9n_yOIQ6bToTx6IM5S1BIqm9Jv_Jh11pws/s320/DSC08004.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />As I looked closer, and while holding my nose, I saw the skull of the culprit!<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc15o_zVX8uLe2gxucwuxbWxYgC4abUOWOd6KnBKM5gA4e6L2YVJQuPT5Y1UclxLKjvJ_G8btsHIMt4hxXQfephudKZT-8YLvIGci26M6tPFZovS-hGLmjjiI0RziKwaDLZT11B4huTNA/s1600/DSC08006.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525732543903608114" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc15o_zVX8uLe2gxucwuxbWxYgC4abUOWOd6KnBKM5gA4e6L2YVJQuPT5Y1UclxLKjvJ_G8btsHIMt4hxXQfephudKZT-8YLvIGci26M6tPFZovS-hGLmjjiI0RziKwaDLZT11B4huTNA/s320/DSC08006.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />It turns out it wasn't only the skull; it was the entire skeletal system from skull to tail and toes included! Oh man, did it smell. Pee and poop coated the bottom of the tank bay and I am still spraying it down and scrubbing it out. I can't get the piss smell out of my nose...<br /><br /><br /><br />The tank itself looked pretty good, dirty, but no <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">noticeable</span> holes.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjQ54dylNmI0VU6_uWf-AbkRUONB5P4UgmvXjK1p8QaBVW44RrOL_0vyVU2PGSgAKVZiONhoCa6kKbzsCB0mtdlqkt6ALerM7sKvZOPDKjSz-1HztCycCMmlmCUZ_mkxAdVarFlQe3AM/s1600/DSC08007.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525732545402083730" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjQ54dylNmI0VU6_uWf-AbkRUONB5P4UgmvXjK1p8QaBVW44RrOL_0vyVU2PGSgAKVZiONhoCa6kKbzsCB0mtdlqkt6ALerM7sKvZOPDKjSz-1HztCycCMmlmCUZ_mkxAdVarFlQe3AM/s320/DSC08007.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />I wonder what rat hair and pee/shit does in regard to resistance drop? My gas <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">gauge</span> never did work below the half way mark...maybe I know why now (pic of the sending unit).<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1LB0p5GrrQnOK5zCvws9u7Arm5VF4UOahuC6IZ2OCvi82S6qD8RYXV920VP-chOsxOQf5z5JJz8XtTnKPiVDT1j1nFgqZu1VfIOswu6rOQ1zR0Y8U0PkBnO4jxXPNSNzH2ao-GteHQiA/s1600/DSC08009.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525732554008250498" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1LB0p5GrrQnOK5zCvws9u7Arm5VF4UOahuC6IZ2OCvi82S6qD8RYXV920VP-chOsxOQf5z5JJz8XtTnKPiVDT1j1nFgqZu1VfIOswu6rOQ1zR0Y8U0PkBnO4jxXPNSNzH2ao-GteHQiA/s320/DSC08009.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>I ordered a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">POR</span>-15 Fuel Tank repair kit from Don at the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">POR</span>-15 outlet on eBay:</div><br /><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">POR</span>-15 AUTO FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT GENUINE <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">POR</span>15 (<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230383638934">Item Number: 230383638934</a>)<br /></div><br /><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiec9ONKRDkkvOIjxVGa8d6xSeAD7ya5Ux_niKph18aY7zytL3LDwWW5L1UUgnsUwxamxMv5WRbrYU7l7hSovJucC7rMyU_2g3Dx1RzECXJghomRNgtYhywp5oVkTkEXPEzQqBSCdInthY/s1600/POR-15+kit.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525738971143269058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 173px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiec9ONKRDkkvOIjxVGa8d6xSeAD7ya5Ux_niKph18aY7zytL3LDwWW5L1UUgnsUwxamxMv5WRbrYU7l7hSovJucC7rMyU_2g3Dx1RzECXJghomRNgtYhywp5oVkTkEXPEzQqBSCdInthY/s320/POR-15+kit.jpg" border="0" /></a>I opted to go the full kit rather then follow <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Atwell's</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">mueratic</span> acid route.<br /><br />I am planning to prep the tank and apply the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">POR</span>-15 this weekend. </div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><div>I also ordered a new fuel filler neck (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">PN</span>211 201 119) and a sending unit (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">PN</span>211 919 051A) from <a href="http://www.busdepot.com/">Bus Depot </a>and am awaiting their arrival. Finally, I have <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">ordered</span> 7.5 mm fuel line hose and clamps from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Smallcar</span> and will replace all fuel hose from tank to engine for safety's sake.</div><br /><div></div><div>I hope to have the tank done and reinstalled by the end of the weekend. Once I have it reinstalled, I need to carefully consider the throttle body position on the Subaru air intake manifold. In its current position, it <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">interferes</span> with the firewall and possibly the tank. The solution to this is to flip the manifold around, rotate the wiring 180* and create a custom <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">alternator</span> mount since the stock location won't fit with the throttle body flipped around.</div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0d59voVwmZP2h271qh5V99LgIls-yhSjZ2oNEP35ddG0algL4PDIlYVf2B77oysmFENRRZq9JPJWMg1Iwq1O57gn8mrkWvbbR2j34h_paiEQvjfc3p8OhtplvGvKmuyzsswTGvcEi2ZQ/s1600/air+intake+manifold.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525748544302915154" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0d59voVwmZP2h271qh5V99LgIls-yhSjZ2oNEP35ddG0algL4PDIlYVf2B77oysmFENRRZq9JPJWMg1Iwq1O57gn8mrkWvbbR2j34h_paiEQvjfc3p8OhtplvGvKmuyzsswTGvcEi2ZQ/s320/air+intake+manifold.jpg" border="0" /></a> <div>I honestly am considering keeping the air intake and throttle body stock so I can retain the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">alternator</span> and a/c compressor in stock location as well. However, this will mean either not installing the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">firewall</span> or modifying the firewall to accept the air intake fittings. I don't even know if it is possible until I roll the engine under and mock it up into rough position to eyeball everything. </div></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-10797588210581846832010-10-01T22:21:00.001-06:002010-10-01T22:36:54.247-06:00Airconditioning cooler unit<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymZs4j0wWAb6MHlpb14Xi3P8fEfbhua3EoAg98WS8GJOMbvpZhWmDkxUTn3iMrY7qVZsGlBeAALb919DIZpHvJDvf7QVpDigfpqsK7WHmpkaDvmptiMqbK_FuxHuLBX0g1PE9aV91Gls/s1600/1+-+AC+cooler.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523299285191011202" style="WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymZs4j0wWAb6MHlpb14Xi3P8fEfbhua3EoAg98WS8GJOMbvpZhWmDkxUTn3iMrY7qVZsGlBeAALb919DIZpHvJDvf7QVpDigfpqsK7WHmpkaDvmptiMqbK_FuxHuLBX0g1PE9aV91Gls/s200/1+-+AC+cooler.jpg" border="0" /></a> While crawling around and under the bus after first buying it, I realized that there was an airconditioning cooler mounted between teh frame rails. It has a vented cover plate to direct airflow through the cooler and looked to be original. <br /><br />I poked around and peared above the system to see what I can discover, and low and behold two fans strattled the hot air pipe the runs the center of the bus toward the front.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKfqYDheS3M9sZc56ibdj3JTXO4UGvUKqCHFppo0SGHkUKqfJzNwBmYb4lvTM4h9xLn6VMGOza2J7iRWCRcKj0oakDqqbZnUqa1Extx6Tu87F_sWhY76sBXkXUiH8Pd2ORCc5jutUw1C8/s1600/4+-+Dual+Fans+above.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523300026269819762" style="WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKfqYDheS3M9sZc56ibdj3JTXO4UGvUKqCHFppo0SGHkUKqfJzNwBmYb4lvTM4h9xLn6VMGOza2J7iRWCRcKj0oakDqqbZnUqa1Extx6Tu87F_sWhY76sBXkXUiH8Pd2ORCc5jutUw1C8/s200/4+-+Dual+Fans+above.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I started to get excited about the possibility of reusing parts and bits from this set up for a radiator set up between the rails. I decided to pull the unit down and explore in more detail. This is the shot I took after I removed it from the bus, with the vented plate has been removed and you can see the aironditioning cooler.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcI3YLWt4TsmR58F-FpyUzgwQFjTgRpqPXRe5Vt5Ddmd6mOlIBcObpBxXLWyR-SHQ1sp05sJ74gO8wQKjb3VttE_fr61HDHrDZ9JWNCFPkzFPTt7ybHmqDTqUptCQd4Rs90NNfsCJmjfo/s1600/DSC08002.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523300030570068418" style="WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcI3YLWt4TsmR58F-FpyUzgwQFjTgRpqPXRe5Vt5Ddmd6mOlIBcObpBxXLWyR-SHQ1sp05sJ74gO8wQKjb3VttE_fr61HDHrDZ9JWNCFPkzFPTt7ybHmqDTqUptCQd4Rs90NNfsCJmjfo/s200/DSC08002.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a closer shot of the two vent rows that supposedly direct air up and through the cooler. I haven't measured the stock Subaru raditator yet, but I believe I should be shooting for 1.5 or even two times the capacity over stock for my application. I am not sure if the dimensions of this vented plate will fit the size of radiator I will need! If anyone is running a certain sized radiator in a vanagon conversion with a Subie engine, please let me know the radiator dimensions.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFwnbjD391CeYW1HBWn5zmTn5IHIkE0EOHw__Jon_scGfpRw1FQyFMRIOiM6jvdo-bKVr3_pdKPCD6tj7O3fyK-4N7mYg5dHiFHuUlU-BQA1f5wg-ZiszS-Ua225gZNfUQd45ZwS6JCqk/s1600/DSC07997.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523300036504715986" style="WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFwnbjD391CeYW1HBWn5zmTn5IHIkE0EOHw__Jon_scGfpRw1FQyFMRIOiM6jvdo-bKVr3_pdKPCD6tj7O3fyK-4N7mYg5dHiFHuUlU-BQA1f5wg-ZiszS-Ua225gZNfUQd45ZwS6JCqk/s200/DSC07997.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here are the original stock fans on the top of the unit that force air down through the cooler at slower speeds I suppose (not sure how they were intended to function on an airconditioner).<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztlapem-8xeY2uMKu5v6TYjMzgHKtNyJ5T4byZWKH4QkOAgRFEvcShv1LtENUq1C9t0_LMMExBR6xBynIuegHKCwnyP4MVqObXvH4oruyvk0jN7HrwFHGKRPeirDTNnuilNfwO1E_xco/s1600/DSC07996.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523300039482527026" style="WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztlapem-8xeY2uMKu5v6TYjMzgHKtNyJ5T4byZWKH4QkOAgRFEvcShv1LtENUq1C9t0_LMMExBR6xBynIuegHKCwnyP4MVqObXvH4oruyvk0jN7HrwFHGKRPeirDTNnuilNfwO1E_xco/s200/DSC07996.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next step is to determine the right sized radiator and then decide if I can buy stock from a different vehicle or if I will need to have one custom made. Once I know the size, I can determine whether the vented cover plate is going to fit.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-79384033066587371792010-09-29T14:10:00.000-06:002010-12-23T11:52:04.934-07:00Parts sourcing and costsHere is the parts list with pictures (courtesy of each vendor), the vendor I am planning to use with a hyperlink to their site, and the current cost of each part. This is not comprehensive but represents the major parts that are necessary for this custom conversion. Additional items will be required to complete the engine and to set up the radiator, the heater cores, and the A/C if I decided to add A/C. I will add parts as the project goes along to maintain this as a comprehensive and up-to-date list as best as possible.<br />
Engine:<br />
I purchased a used 2001 Subaru Impreza 2.2L naturally aspirated engine, along with ecu, full wiring harness (engine, engine to ecu, and dash) from a local salvage yard. I still need to acquire an altenator, mass air flow sensor, A/C compressor, and ignition system eventually along with various other bits and pieces. The engine was compression tested at 185 psi on all four cylinders and ran well when pulled and had 48,000 miles. <br />
Total Cost $1,000<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgONbf4M-047IKrEeAYfTZo9xUhAPLwdNFRK3rcbs2-sIAYyIqSh2WElfBYvL8wTwbdENDgGje3IZvmj-DSD9xAzezUi5Xb_GQ4vaD034HHJhPM5g608hjte_YUL6n2vrz6j2-XkmgxZtM/s1600/Subie+engine+001.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522431976682323490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgONbf4M-047IKrEeAYfTZo9xUhAPLwdNFRK3rcbs2-sIAYyIqSh2WElfBYvL8wTwbdENDgGje3IZvmj-DSD9xAzezUi5Xb_GQ4vaD034HHJhPM5g608hjte_YUL6n2vrz6j2-XkmgxZtM/s320/Subie+engine+001.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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This is the phase 2 model with OBDII and clocks in at 145 bhp at 5600 rpms and pulls a stout 149 ft-lbs of torque ate 3600 rpms. That is double the stock 70 bhp that the aircooled engine provided!<br />
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The two eyeing each other; its like a first date...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHbRBCqzCBBEBxo2bGM7s-YKcWCVgmi5XVCc4xmv0ouua_hQSUbbL8HEvQgiKspISMI4NlAw2NNKz91Rb0SLO46aRa67fomfaIDoxpYI08WouvGDG-wQi7amJfvdTdD_qgRdm2bYzgJp8/s1600/Subie+engine+004.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522432813191718754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHbRBCqzCBBEBxo2bGM7s-YKcWCVgmi5XVCc4xmv0ouua_hQSUbbL8HEvQgiKspISMI4NlAw2NNKz91Rb0SLO46aRa67fomfaIDoxpYI08WouvGDG-wQi7amJfvdTdD_qgRdm2bYzgJp8/s320/Subie+engine+004.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Here is a shot of the wiring harness (I get stressed everytime I look at this mess):<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEged57oZxx1QbDJgebaNbDmoDsb3lPxlEN7m-OAAXBa9UqtcBLAO2mpI5u5WORjUiY-LJ7YZ2V6-gzdiBu3CKZa3twStbvzgKAjDuUpwoZWdSr4SCoN8zyFBCK5zkx1L3o5h63f9_X9TW0/s1600/DSC08012.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522433780701337890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEged57oZxx1QbDJgebaNbDmoDsb3lPxlEN7m-OAAXBa9UqtcBLAO2mpI5u5WORjUiY-LJ7YZ2V6-gzdiBu3CKZa3twStbvzgKAjDuUpwoZWdSr4SCoN8zyFBCK5zkx1L3o5h63f9_X9TW0/s320/DSC08012.JPG" style="cursor: hand; float: left; height: 240px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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And here are the other parts that will need to buy:<br />
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<u>Junk Yard</u><br />
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<strong>Vanagon Rear Engine Mount Cross Member = $20 </strong><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqpRK03jeBC4hugU1uTLKb9iedLYnZeQlxgPxx5s3BQYAYe6LxsruENVnFRLH1GlDcqJqkhu4xPuoNmL2J5pEZvpMEH6iUXyGMghKB3EFBTZ6lSy12D53TVWvzymI3MbM085l_DFOXTs/s1600/IMAG0321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqpRK03jeBC4hugU1uTLKb9iedLYnZeQlxgPxx5s3BQYAYe6LxsruENVnFRLH1GlDcqJqkhu4xPuoNmL2J5pEZvpMEH6iUXyGMghKB3EFBTZ6lSy12D53TVWvzymI3MbM085l_DFOXTs/s320/IMAG0321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<u>Custom fabricate or </u><a href="http://www.rjes.com/index.html">RJES</a><br />
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<strong>Throttle Body Reverser (eng -->1999)</strong> or <br />
<img align="left" alt="throttle body reverser02" border="6" height="556" hspace="10" id="Picture48" src="http://www.rjes.com/assets/images/autogen/a_throttle_body_reverser02.jpg" style="border-bottom: rgb(153,153,153) 6px solid; border-left: rgb(153,153,153) 6px solid; border-right: rgb(153,153,153) 6px solid; border-top: rgb(153,153,153) 6px solid;" title="throttle body reverser02" width="389" /><br />
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<strong>Induction Manifold Reversal Kit (2000--> eng)</strong> : This you can do yourself by flipping the manifold 180* and the flipping the engine wiring harness back 180* so the firing order on teh enjectors remains in the correct order.<br />
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<a href="http://www.kennedyeng.com/">Kennedy Engineered Products</a><br />
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<strong>Adapter, flexplate and bolts = $480<br />
</strong><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiFQtCZoCjhYqzelQ3tdzVT49a4YQSk9o_VW0de6VhdcfN7zykdbomU5pYbaev3jEbPc28lxe_hCZKbbOC96sR1kC5z9nJ93UcUW6bnQhsvIV-qQlSTar4w9hJeNHkIocylRkVY4bLSok/s1600/adapter3.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522439852208180962" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiFQtCZoCjhYqzelQ3tdzVT49a4YQSk9o_VW0de6VhdcfN7zykdbomU5pYbaev3jEbPc28lxe_hCZKbbOC96sR1kC5z9nJ93UcUW6bnQhsvIV-qQlSTar4w9hJeNHkIocylRkVY4bLSok/s320/adapter3.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 214px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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The adapter is what allows the Subaru engine to bolt to the VW transmission. Since the two parts weren't meant to fit together orginally, an adapter or spacer is placed between the two and has appropriate bolt hole alignment on one side to fit the engine and a different bolt hole alignment to fit the transmission. Note: this picture from Kennedy's site shows a fly wheel for a manual transmission instead of a flexplate for an automatic transmission (that I will need).<br />
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<a href="http://www.smallcar.com/index.php">Small Car Performance </a><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Subagon Parts Kit - Automatic Vanagons<span id="product_code_29825"> = $1,495</span></strong></span><br />
<h1 class="mainbox-title"><span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Hall effect speed sensor kit = $50</span></h1><strong>Subagon 5qt aluminum oil pan = $330 </strong><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-pUARKHDTxk1nGktPxfJFr5Bz4gRwsrlSuQjn8RKdomm95JMqEHdP002Nr4Ex9Z4aR0xjZY7VKOhGwrZUclcFVrpCqIGLDYSurFe-LdnEptmrM7Kh63X9ro9mxAL-nLv7XDus0KS6rc/s1600/oilpan.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522464065577028466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-pUARKHDTxk1nGktPxfJFr5Bz4gRwsrlSuQjn8RKdomm95JMqEHdP002Nr4Ex9Z4aR0xjZY7VKOhGwrZUclcFVrpCqIGLDYSurFe-LdnEptmrM7Kh63X9ro9mxAL-nLv7XDus0KS6rc/s320/oilpan.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 249px; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
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The shortened oil sump is not necessary, but the stock Subaru oil sump pan hangs pretty low, so if you don't replace it, chances of catching road rocks or other unwanteds compiles. It also reduces approach and departure angles on steep grades or (goodness forbid) 4x4 roads. Shortening the sump while maintain stock oil capacity is the name of the game.<br />
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<strong>Vanagon stainless exhaust with OE cat = $585 </strong><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvdgZUKjtH8fuMhQE0-I7qCHppG3v7jNmYQjjZFnD-rV5XOXBqltPZ9glOc4G0MN6Oib5M8uF-Czuuaq07-f2dxtLJ-dyv8b9YJGvTyw0xMrpZKn3hqXvTQDsejfw4kVAG0uDuxy6w45o/s1600/Exhaust.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522464136278984018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvdgZUKjtH8fuMhQE0-I7qCHppG3v7jNmYQjjZFnD-rV5XOXBqltPZ9glOc4G0MN6Oib5M8uF-Czuuaq07-f2dxtLJ-dyv8b9YJGvTyw0xMrpZKn3hqXvTQDsejfw4kVAG0uDuxy6w45o/s320/Exhaust.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 174px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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<strong>Interface Board = $65 </strong><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQaO9x9N4fv1GVSwANugtfbMt03_4G4dYca1XV_NCFDZlmf49WWujiLiDYKr4wDQYjC2giaB_eQRV7sGB2ObojoycbnsjGHK-StkhsGu4NVkSBk6oQPkbvozia6vLHXh-sP4F7GfGKIQ/s1600/InterfaceBoard.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522464213254367858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQaO9x9N4fv1GVSwANugtfbMt03_4G4dYca1XV_NCFDZlmf49WWujiLiDYKr4wDQYjC2giaB_eQRV7sGB2ObojoycbnsjGHK-StkhsGu4NVkSBk6oQPkbvozia6vLHXh-sP4F7GfGKIQ/s320/InterfaceBoard.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 164px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
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This list should get me started down the road. Most important to the conversion right now is the engine mounting bar, the adapter and flexplate, and the reversed induction manifold. That will allow me to get the engine installed and mounted to the transmission. Then all the small and hard steps begin to make it function appropriately.<br />
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Peace.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-61875410721304424342010-09-29T13:47:00.000-06:002010-09-29T14:10:24.314-06:00ResourcesAs I mentioned previously, there are quite a bit of good places for information regarding this swap, as well as aftermarket companies that make parts or modify parts to complete the conversion. Unfortunately, most are specific to swaps into Vanagons and none are consolidated into a chronological, cohesive guide for Bay conversions.<br /><br />Here are excellent online forums to research and explore:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.thesamba.com/vw/">http://www.thesamba.com/vw/</a> (check both Type 2 and Performance forums)<br /><a href="http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewforum.php?fid=59">http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewforum.php?fid=59</a> (from our friends down under)<br /><a href="http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewforum.php?f=26">http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewforum.php?f=26</a> (Richard Jones has great details and parts)<br /><a href="http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruvanagon/">http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruvanagon/</a> (Yahoo Group dedicated to Vanagons)<br /><br />Tutorials:<br /><a href="http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/">http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/</a> Restorations and general information)<br /><a href="http://www.ratwell.com/">http://www.ratwell.com/</a> (the source for Type 2s)<br /><a href="http://www.subaruvanagon.com/">http://www.subaruvanagon.com/</a> (Tom Shiels on wiring, transmission, and more)<br /><br />Part Suppliers and Vendors:<br /><a href="http://www.kennedyeng.com/">http://www.kennedyeng.com/</a> (Palmdale, CA)<br /><a href="http://www.rjes.com/html/conversion_overview.html">http://www.rjes.com/html/conversion_overview.html</a> (England)<br /><a href="http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=173">http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=173</a> (Tacoma, WA)<br /><a href="http://zpmay.emdgh.servertrust.com/Default.asp">http://zpmay.emdgh.servertrust.com/Default.asp</a> (Fort Collins, CO)<br /><a href="http://www.wildwesty.com/">http://www.wildwesty.com/</a> (Boulder, CO)<br /><a href="http://www.vanaru.com/">http://www.vanaru.com/</a> (New York, ??)<br /><a href="http://www.germantransaxle.com/">http://www.germantransaxle.com/</a> (Bend, OR)<br /><p>There may be many more that people have used and found helpful, but these are predominately the sites and companies that I have based my research on. Feel free to leave a comment if there are other sites/resources that would be helpful to put on this list.</p><p>Peace.</p>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-86649947268321036892010-09-29T09:50:00.001-06:002010-09-29T12:27:23.126-06:00Engine RemovalYou may be asking yourself: why pull the engine? The answer to that starts with worn piston rings and the first maiden road trip to Santa Fe. <div><div><br />Shortly after we bought the bus, we made plans to drive down to Santa Fe with our two daughters, our dog and a Bus full of camping stuff. The drive down went reasonably well, but we were getting oil spray on the back of the bus. And of course what should have been a 6 hour drive turned into a 10 hour drive. SLOW. Regardless, we arrived.</div><div><br />On the way home, the Bus started to lose power, smoke started exiting the tail pipe, and a constant tat-tat-tat noise was coming from the engine compartment. We limped home from Trinidad to Denver but had a long, slow, hot day doing so.</div><br /><div>I parked the Bus in the garage, pulled out my compression gauge and found the following compression results:</div><div><br />Cylinder 1: 107 psi<br />Cylinder 2: 103 psi<br />Cylinder 3: 90 psi<br />Cylinder 4: 60 psi</div><br /><div>Stock compression results should be in the 120-130 range with little variation between each cylinder (there are exact numbers and percentages, but I'm not trying to be specific, just general). My results suggested either extremely worn piston rings or a broken ring. Either way, the required fix involved dropping and removing the engine.</div><div><br />So I did.</div><div></div><br /><div>Getting prepped.</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrSZiIhg_1fLXuO0RaPqpQO6LAS0Ta-g_owoWyCjlv79EPkHLR4Efbsj_RioVh2l3xu3rvqhYwQ80ptKFPes8HXyTNTI3othL3r1vSpykzZh0WXYLWYyfO-5GbOqp5eDTd-FBx-0p7mU/s1600/VW+004.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522389036761057586" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrSZiIhg_1fLXuO0RaPqpQO6LAS0Ta-g_owoWyCjlv79EPkHLR4Efbsj_RioVh2l3xu3rvqhYwQ80ptKFPes8HXyTNTI3othL3r1vSpykzZh0WXYLWYyfO-5GbOqp5eDTd-FBx-0p7mU/s320/VW+004.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><br /><div>Laying out the tools and starting to dismantle. I followed <a href="http://www.ratwell.com/technical/EngineRemoval.html">Richard Atwell's engine removal article </a>and had very few hick-ups along the way.</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZYJ6vdNBRZgzsI55ULYwvHrpOGglzmS6KGiGfrme4KyiUgnCp-G-S0lPRB3zwaTQGmPE9WC7jfsTq3fbQncZaHI7J1sk-ciIaZUsUO0HfN813jd2u013sQz6ULfAhp97t-lmOgfGHdI/s1600/VW+005.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522389039678665634" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZYJ6vdNBRZgzsI55ULYwvHrpOGglzmS6KGiGfrme4KyiUgnCp-G-S0lPRB3zwaTQGmPE9WC7jfsTq3fbQncZaHI7J1sk-ciIaZUsUO0HfN813jd2u013sQz6ULfAhp97t-lmOgfGHdI/s320/VW+005.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div>One last look.</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUb_x0zhdn66dPXi3BGjaLhKZjfQN2EPCBounwoAfrtIDqa9xQVmEpQ8wl7XKDmmF-t0Kar6DTbW_07QZF-7Y2y-y_a_w7pCVZfx8KptQg1_bDiFONhuhEcITYZQqxnoozyivApV7P7E/s1600/VW+001.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522389049496396946" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUb_x0zhdn66dPXi3BGjaLhKZjfQN2EPCBounwoAfrtIDqa9xQVmEpQ8wl7XKDmmF-t0Kar6DTbW_07QZF-7Y2y-y_a_w7pCVZfx8KptQg1_bDiFONhuhEcITYZQqxnoozyivApV7P7E/s320/VW+001.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><div>Parts are slowly coming off.</div><br /><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDXh09pHepejXIlIh1tmfOSriw1k3XzfhjnuutNWD45Ki28xtAPbiHkT_6cPidXlCUeUAQ_u918Y4hj43p5dD_x0wTcBmjYFnT0LTkiOGPWR7fe5LBPAWVo_Gv0BGIsrSUd27RyjJ4as/s1600/VW+003.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522389066683288626" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDXh09pHepejXIlIh1tmfOSriw1k3XzfhjnuutNWD45Ki28xtAPbiHkT_6cPidXlCUeUAQ_u918Y4hj43p5dD_x0wTcBmjYFnT0LTkiOGPWR7fe5LBPAWVo_Gv0BGIsrSUd27RyjJ4as/s320/VW+003.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div></div><div>You don't need too many tools when working on an aircooled VW.</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyt-rPl0l-FWYKIZgAUvjS1OeU5xl8kcx865jLZZs4hBgiqGckY9S6uPCOTve1VQni6jaJCrzFjFxETQ25S1ey15GTPwwEsb-c2DR0H27iN1XdpIJ_VtjVjoOM6HrragAn68sIfYomzGA/s1600/VW+002.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522389052269667138" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyt-rPl0l-FWYKIZgAUvjS1OeU5xl8kcx865jLZZs4hBgiqGckY9S6uPCOTve1VQni6jaJCrzFjFxETQ25S1ey15GTPwwEsb-c2DR0H27iN1XdpIJ_VtjVjoOM6HrragAn68sIfYomzGA/s320/VW+002.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>Here's the pile of exhaust parts, heater boxes, engine cooling tin and other random bits creating a big heap along the fence.</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMFj_X4VHYC4poi2dKUHbF4acTYAA29Wk96E2fch_xlqHp9cUqDOJh4JISvkOrcrMUyD_sWeF0gSJc8-Ft-d_TE6IK5PiJfI3iLsPl5y0_CWrCmdKOR9rAKIYTf6b_9Q7LwazTZ67GAc4/s1600/VW+006.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522391549500542098" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMFj_X4VHYC4poi2dKUHbF4acTYAA29Wk96E2fch_xlqHp9cUqDOJh4JISvkOrcrMUyD_sWeF0gSJc8-Ft-d_TE6IK5PiJfI3iLsPl5y0_CWrCmdKOR9rAKIYTf6b_9Q7LwazTZ67GAc4/s320/VW+006.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>The actual removal of the engine once the various lines and wires were diconnected and removed went relatively smoothly considering this was my first time doing it. With the help of a neighbor, we pulled the engine in about 3 hours (not including the disconnection of all the parts before getting to bellhousing bolts and engine mount support bar). We ran into difficulty accessing the torque converter to flexplate bolts and couldn't find details about where to access them; lots of stuff about removing the three bolts but not much on how/where (and no, I don't have a Bentley repair manual; I know, shame on me).</div><div></div><br /><div>We ended up pulling the engine WITH the torque converter still attached to the flexplate; a lot more difficult due to tight spaces. After the fact, I found the access hole hidden in the tin on the top left of the engine. All the oil, grease and grime didn't make it easy to find. Here's a pic for anyone interested:</div><div></div><br /><div>...picture forth coming...<br /><br />And she's out! (Bonehead tip: drain the oil before doing his. I know that sounds obvious, but I didn't. I ended up with most of the engine oil on my garage floor. Three bags of kitty litter and about as much time to clean it as it did to pull the engine had me back to normal. Uhg.)</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzNtGJyH5crXAXxk6wjo97Vlsk3ZCI7Nxa-ppESGOv4-YPjfTj3PkTFFrz6JZb82NRplS7bMqY8a4mN0yw_9SITkMxFQgiKRqOeE4fOCP2pnel1TX7bwV3nXU3RyIbdQBRJWbUNIJbjfs/s1600/DSC07998.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522397310285339122" style="WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzNtGJyH5crXAXxk6wjo97Vlsk3ZCI7Nxa-ppESGOv4-YPjfTj3PkTFFrz6JZb82NRplS7bMqY8a4mN0yw_9SITkMxFQgiKRqOeE4fOCP2pnel1TX7bwV3nXU3RyIbdQBRJWbUNIJbjfs/s320/DSC07998.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><br />(*Note: this picture was taken after I removed the torque converter)</div></div></div></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3925316327537536380.post-22516461019784800852010-09-29T09:12:00.002-06:002011-08-18T09:28:11.865-06:00The Start<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQc_wXGSJ_dT7fPz5WXBraJl3Y_o_nOo_qj0zxUa2BXeuNCM6fIiaMYp09jNoRblAGDQlii8y1nxHTVwepCTOGFO2S5yjvA0xMSdGElAUWu4m0emOlWalZR5wdXRNAiitV5QAGiryUEa8/s1600/IMAG0624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQc_wXGSJ_dT7fPz5WXBraJl3Y_o_nOo_qj0zxUa2BXeuNCM6fIiaMYp09jNoRblAGDQlii8y1nxHTVwepCTOGFO2S5yjvA0xMSdGElAUWu4m0emOlWalZR5wdXRNAiitV5QAGiryUEa8/s320/IMAG0624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This blog is to chronicle the process of pulling the stock 2.0L aircooled engine out of my 1979 VW Westfalia Campmobile Deluxe to replace it with a 2001 Subaru 2.2L watercooled engine.<br />
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A lot of documentation and even aftermarket support parts exist for this conversion into the VW Vanagon, which utilized the waterboxer watercooled engine, but very little cohesive details exist on doing this conversion with a late model Bay Bus as I have. So, in an effort to support the community, I hope to create a chronological account of my trials, tribulations, parts collection, and engineering to help others interested in doing this conversion to a late Bay model VW Bus.<br />
<form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">* Photo courtesy of the Amazing Mr. Styles singer, song writer and lead guitarist of <a href="http://www.theodysseyfavor.com/"><span style="color: #000099;">The Odyssey Favor</span></a><span style="color: #000099;"> </span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBbJ3LEGVNKp-bdLII3wSASYsSuaazBzQzenecoOUjGagh5Rjrz9iB1Gt6u4iHpoF5t4PqwqyhCyg8AE7XEnvz_QR3GysjbRWcRVjASwFqbxfzHDLleZXlq-2tdEx7cbYJnXgaRgynRMo/s1600/of_logo_2.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523103544266923010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBbJ3LEGVNKp-bdLII3wSASYsSuaazBzQzenecoOUjGagh5Rjrz9iB1Gt6u4iHpoF5t4PqwqyhCyg8AE7XEnvz_QR3GysjbRWcRVjASwFqbxfzHDLleZXlq-2tdEx7cbYJnXgaRgynRMo/s200/of_logo_2.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 177px; width: 200px;" /></a></form></div>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13310916750040675867noreply@blogger.com11