Friday, October 8, 2010
If you notice how close the throttle body extends in relation to the engine mating surface for the transmission, and if you think about the alignment of the VW transmission bellhouse almost inline with the firewall above, you can see that there is going to be a conflict. There is no way to attach an air intake pipe/filter to the throttle body without interfering with the firewall and gas tank.
The most common remedy for this is to flip the throttle body 180* and then flip the wiring harness 180* again so the fuel injectors still fire in the correct order. The problem with this solution is that the throttle body then intrudes into the space that the alternator normally sits, requiring a custom fabricated bracket system to reposition the alternator where the a/c compressor normally sits.
My dilemma is that I am not sure I want to screw around with fabricating a bracket, and there are none to purchase aftermarket right now. Richard at RJES is potentially going to sell an off the shelf alternator bracket to help this problem, but it is not available currently. An added problem is that this solution eliminates the possibility of an A/C compressor since the alternator has to be be repositioned to the spot the A/C compressor us ally sits. I kind of like the idea of retaining the A/C compressor so we can have air conditioning. Windows down with a two year old and a 10 month old is not always a good thing.
However, the alternative to reversing the manifold is to modify the firewall or potentially run without the firewall (may not be a smart choice without a fire repression system installed). AND, I don't know of the air intake pipe will even fit without the firewall due to the gas tank. I have to mock the engine up in place to see what type of, if any at all, clearance I have.
In the meantime, I pulled the intake manifold off.
A lot of people doing this conversion on Vanagon VW have the coolant manifold reversed to better fit and locate with the original Vanagaon coolant lines, which sit on the top passenger side of the engine compartment. Since I don't have stock radiator or lines to mate up, I don't have to reverse the coolant manifold. However, I am considering doing so since most/all radiator coolant schematics are based on this manifold being reversed. It is an added cost but it would make routing and plumbing against common schematics very easy. Tom Shiels has quite a bit of excellent info on coolant and radiator set ups on his Website although it is all for Vanagon conversions not Bays like mine.
Pulling the tank wasn't too hard with the engine out. I followed Richard Atwell's DIY Fuel Tank Restore thread. I was shocked at the amount of rats nest hiding out behind the firewall after pulling it off.
As I looked closer, and while holding my nose, I saw the skull of the culprit!
It turns out it wasn't only the skull; it was the entire skeletal system from skull to tail and toes included! Oh man, did it smell. Pee and poop coated the bottom of the tank bay and I am still spraying it down and scrubbing it out. I can't get the piss smell out of my nose...
The tank itself looked pretty good, dirty, but no noticeable holes.
I wonder what rat hair and pee/shit does in regard to resistance drop? My gas gauge never did work below the half way mark...maybe I know why now (pic of the sending unit).
I opted to go the full kit rather then follow Atwell's mueratic acid route.
I am planning to prep the tank and apply the POR-15 this weekend.
Friday, October 1, 2010
I poked around and peared above the system to see what I can discover, and low and behold two fans strattled the hot air pipe the runs the center of the bus toward the front.
I started to get excited about the possibility of reusing parts and bits from this set up for a radiator set up between the rails. I decided to pull the unit down and explore in more detail. This is the shot I took after I removed it from the bus, with the vented plate has been removed and you can see the aironditioning cooler.
Here is a closer shot of the two vent rows that supposedly direct air up and through the cooler. I haven't measured the stock Subaru raditator yet, but I believe I should be shooting for 1.5 or even two times the capacity over stock for my application. I am not sure if the dimensions of this vented plate will fit the size of radiator I will need! If anyone is running a certain sized radiator in a vanagon conversion with a Subie engine, please let me know the radiator dimensions.
Here are the original stock fans on the top of the unit that force air down through the cooler at slower speeds I suppose (not sure how they were intended to function on an airconditioner).
Next step is to determine the right sized radiator and then decide if I can buy stock from a different vehicle or if I will need to have one custom made. Once I know the size, I can determine whether the vented cover plate is going to fit.